What is Involved in a Watch Service?

A watch service isn’t just a quick fix; it’s a meticulous process that breathes new life into your cherished timepiece, ensuring it keeps ticking with precision for years to come. It’s a deep dive into the watch’s mechanical heart, addressing wear, lubrication, and any potential issues that could compromise its performance. With the expertise of our Master Watchmaker and our On-site BHI Accredited Watchmaker, we are able to repair and service almost any watch, modern or vintage.

The service kicks off with the removal of the movement from the watch case. This delicate operation generally begins with the careful removal of the case back. This requires specialist tools to avoid any scratches or damage. Our workshop is kitted out with some of the best tooling and equipment available. Once the movement’s accessible, the watchmaker will painstakingly detach any screws or clamps holding it in place within the case. The stem and crown also have to be disengaged from the winding mechanism before the entire movement, complete with its dial and hands, can be gently removed.

With the movement out, the next stage is the removal of the dial and hands. This is a particularly sensitive part of the process due to just how fragile these components are. The hands, often incredibly fine and easily bent, are removed using specialist hand levers or a presto hand remover, carefully positioned to lift them without marking the dial or the hand itself. Once the hands are off, the dial, which is typically secured by small screws or pins, is detached from the movement. Throughout this whole process, the watchmaker is looking for any signs of damage, corrosion, or previous improper handling.

After the dial and hands are off, the real heart of the service begins with the disassembly of the movement itself. This is a systematic process and there is a general order of disassembly, though it can vary from movement to movement. The watchmaker meticulously removes bridges, screws, springs, and wheels until the movement is fully disassembled.

As each part is removed, a vital step involves progressively checking components and carrying out some initial cleaning. This inspection is crucial for spotting any worn, bent, or broken parts that might need replacing. Under magnification, the watchmaker examines pivots for wear, teeth on wheels for damage, and springs for fatigue or distortion. At the same time, an initial clean is performed. For areas like jewel bearings, a piece of pegwood – a soft, wooden stick we shape into a point – is often used to gently clean out any accumulated debris and old lubricants. As parts are removed and initially inspected, they’re carefully dropped into a high-grade horological essence to start dissolving any old oils and gunk.

Cleaning

With all the components of the movement fully disassembled, the cleaning phase truly gets underway. All those tiny parts are carefully loaded into an Elma Solvex automatic watch movement cleaning machine. This rather clever piece of kit uses a multi-stage cleaning process, involving four baths of specialist cleaning solutions and rinses, followed by a heated drying cycle. The machine’s precise agitation and controlled environment make sure that even the tiniest nooks and crannies are thoroughly purged of old oils, dust, and particles. At the same time, the disassembled watch case is given its own rigorous clean. For this we use an ultrasonic cleaner, which uses high-frequency sound waves to create microscopic bubbles that implode, effectively dislodging dirt and grime from all surfaces, both visible and hidden. This two-pronged cleaning approach ensures every single part, inside and out, is absolutely spotless and ready for reassembly.

Reassembly

With every component now sparkling clean, the reassembly phase begins. This is where the watchmaker’s expertise in lubrication really shines through. The movement is carefully put back together and precisely oiled according to the manufacturer’s specifications. This isn’t just a haphazard squirt; specific oils, greases, and surface treatments, such as Epilame, are used for different parts. Epilame, for instance, is a chemical treatment applied to certain surfaces to stop oil from spreading, making sure it stays exactly where it’s needed for the best possible lubrication. Careful, precise oiling is paramount for reducing friction, preventing wear, and making sure the watch keeps excellent time. We also reassemble the case, replacing the seals and gaskets as appropriate.

Adjusting

As the movement is gradually reassembled, the adjusting phase is seamlessly integrated. Part of this involves fine-tuning the watch’s timekeeping by making minute adjustments to the balance wheel and escapement. For more modern movements, this might include adjusting the Etachron system, a fine-regulation mechanism that allows for extremely precise adjustments to the balance spring’s effective length, thereby altering the watch’s rate.

Testing

Finally, the watch undergoes rigorous testing. Initially, the newly serviced movement is placed on a Witschi Watch Expert IV. This highly accurate diagnostic tool uses acoustic sensors to measure the watch’s rate, amplitude, and beat error, giving immediate feedback on its timekeeping performance in various positions. Following this initial electronic assessment, the watch is subjected to real-world testing. It’s placed on a watch winding machine for an extended period, mimicking the continuous motion of being worn, ensuring the automatic winding system works correctly and maintains the correct power reserve. Additionally, for a period of several days, the watch is manually wound and monitored across different positions. This comprehensive testing regime ensures the watch not only meets but often exceeds the manufacturer’s original specifications for accuracy and reliability, signifying the successful completion of a thorough and professional watch service.