Famous British Watchmakers – George Daniels

George Daniels (1926-2011) stands as an iconic figure in the realm of horology, leaving an indelible mark on the world of watchmaking. Born in London, Daniels embarked on his journey into the world of timekeeping at the age of 15, commencing an apprenticeship that would shape the course of his illustrious career.

Despite lacking formal education in watchmaking, Daniels exhibited an innate talent and an insatiable curiosity for mechanical devices. His early twenties saw him gain recognition as a skilled and inventive craftsman.

One of his most groundbreaking contributions was the invention of the Co-Axial escapement, a transformative breakthrough that significantly enhanced the accuracy and efficiency of mechanical watches. Initially met with scepticism, Daniels’ invention ultimately revolutionized modern watchmaking, showcasing his prowess in pushing the boundaries of what was achievable in timekeeping mechanisms.

Daniels was not merely a technical innovator but also a passionate advocate for preserving traditional craftsmanship in an era dominated by mass production. Faced with the encroachment of quartz watches, he staunchly defended the art of handmade watchmaking. As documented in the excellent film “The Watchmaker’s Apprentice”, Daniels’ acted as a mentor to Roger Smith who has continued with George Daniels’ work on the Isle of Man. Roger Smith has further developed and refining the co-axial escapement in his own fantastic range of handmade watches.

One of the masterpieces that exemplified Daniels’ technical and artistic brilliance was the Space Traveller watch. This double-dial timepiece featured both mean solar time and sidereal time, along with various astronomical indications, showcasing Daniels’ ability to blend functionality with intricate design.

Daniels’ commitment to craftsmanship extended beyond his own creations; he penned the authoritative book “Watchmaking,” a seminal guide in the field that shared his knowledge and insights with aspiring watchmakers. His teachings became essential resources, ensuring that his legacy would continue to shape the next generation of horologists.

Unsurprisingly George Daniels has received numerous accolades throughout the years. These include the prestigious Gold Medal from the British Horological Institute, Gold Medal from the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Gold Medal from the City and Guilds of London Institute, a CBE in 1981 and even a Gold Blue Peter Badge.

In essence, George Daniels’ story is one of innovation, craftsmanship, and an unwavering dedication to the art of watchmaking. His technical brilliance and commitment to preserving tradition have left an enduring legacy that continues to inspire and guide watchmakers worldwide. Daniels’ contributions have ensured that the timeless beauty and appreciation of mechanical timepieces will persist for generations to come.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Vintage Roamer Watch Service and Repair

We deal with a huge variety of watches in our workshop, ranging from modern Omega and Rolex through to vintage wrist and pocket watches. Vintage watches often need extra special care and attention, especially if the watch in question has not been regularly serviced over the years.

In this particular instance we received a vintage Roamer watch in for full restoration. We needed to get the watch up and running, restore the dial, supply and fit a new set of hands, fit a new glass, new crown and re-plate the gold-plated case.

While the dial was being restored by our specialist dial restorer, the movement could be serviced. It is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The mainspring was “set” –  This is when the mainspring has, in effect, lost much of it’s spring. The upshot being a significant reduction in power. It was also an old carbon steel mainspring – these are more prone to breaking. We were able to source an appropriate modern equivalent mainspring for this calibre of movement. It was clear this movement hadn’t been serviced for some time – most of the oils and greases were completely dried up and needed to be manually scraped off as part of the pre-cleaning process.

Once fully disassembled the movement is run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled. Once the dial restoration was complete we were able to reunite it with the movement, as well as fit some new hands. These needed a little adjustment to fit the watch correctly, as the holes where the hour and minute hand fit over the hour wheel and cannon pinion respectively were too large. To tighten the hands we use a staking set and the correct type of punch. This slightly tightens the hands enough to ensure a snug fit.

To restore the gold-plated case the old, worn plating first needed to be removed before new plating could be applied. Layers of other metals are used underneath the gold plating to ensure a good molecular bond between the metals. After these have been applied the final gold plating layer can be added. When electro-plating everything has to be immaculately clean and free from grease, as even holding the case with your hands may impart oils which affect the plated layer.

With the now re-plated case we can then fit a new glass ready for the entire watch to be completely reassembled along with a new gold plated crown. Once everything is reunited the watch is back to excellent condition both inside and out. All that’s left is to test this fantastic vintage Roamer watch before it can be returned to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Monaco Service and Refinishing

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop we have been assessed to meet the standards required for on-site Tag Heuer repairs, covering the full range of interventions up to full servicing and repair. In this instance we’re taking care of a Tag Heuer Monaco watch, with a black dial, sub-dial seconds and a date indicator at 3 o’clock.

This watch was not working on arrival and the case was very scratched and beaten up. Initial inspection of the movement found it in dire need of a service, as the oils and greases designed to keep everything working properly were mostly dried up.

The fault stopping the watch from working turned out to be a broken mainspring – the source of power for the movement. The movement powering this watch is a Tag Heuer Calibre 6, which is based on the ETA calibre 2895-2. To repair this watch we needed to give it a full service and fit a new mainspring. We also replaced the worn reversing wheel, part of the automatic winding mechanism. Alongside the necessary remedial works to the movement, our client requested work to improve the aesthetic condition.

To clean and polish the case it is completely disassembled before we refinish each element using a variable speed polishing machine with a selection of different polishing mops and compounds. We use certain wheels to maintain the flat lines of the case. When polishing it’s often a case of “less is more” as anything which may compromise the original profile of the case is undesirable.

While it was not necessary to order case parts in this instance, As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop, we are able to order and additional parts we may have needed to conduct a comprehensive repair of this watch. Parts we are able to obtain include bezels, crowns, glasses, pushers and seals. Only authorised workshops can order these parts for Tag Heuer watches.

After a full service this Tag Heuer Monaco watch is back to excellent working order. The refinishing works to the case have restored the aesthetic condition to an excellent standard too. Another job well done!

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 Service

We are able to offer a comprehensive repairs service for Tag Heuer watches. Our workshop is a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop – this means we have been assessed to meet the standards required for on-site Tag Heuer repairs, covering the full range of interventions up to full servicing and repair.

This Tag Heuer is one of the Aquaracer range – these were introduced in 2004 and their roots stem from the Heuer Dive watches of the 1980s. This particular model is fairly recent – dating from 2016 and it had never been serviced since purchase.

On our initial inspection the watch appeared to be in decent aesthetic condition, though it was no longer working. The hand setting worked ok, as did the date change.

On opening the case back the fault stopping the watch from working presented itself – a screw had worked its way out of the train wheel bridge and wedged itself under the balance wheel. This can happen if screws aren’t tightened to the correct torque, or a shock may cause them to come loose. After removing the screw the watch started working, though it still needed a service to restore it back to excellent working order.

The movement this Aquaracer uses is the Tag Heuer Calibre 5 – this version is based on the Sellita SW200-1 movement. As part of the service we replaced the mainspring, ratchet wheel and both reversers.

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop, we are able to order the required parts to complete this repair direct from the manufacturer. While they were not required in this instance, we are able to obtain case parts too, such as bezels, crowns, glasses, pushers and seals. Only authorised workshops can order these parts for Tag Heuer watches.

After a full service this Tag Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 watch tests to within chronometer standard on our Witschi Watch Expert 4 timing machine! After closing the case back for the final time we pressure test the watch to its original rating of 300m before testing timekeeping performance using our Elma Cyclomotion automatic watch winder over a number of days. After final quality control it’s ready to collect. Another lovely watch restored back to excellent working order.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Black Dial Omega Seamaster Servicing and Repair

The Omega Seamaster is an iconic watch and one we see regularly in our workshop. The history of the model can be traced back to the 1940s and the brand’s military and professional watches produced for the British Royal Navy during World War II. These watches were highly durable and water-resistant, essential qualities for military personnel. Modern versions of the Seamaster are often linked to James Bond, who has worn an Omega Seamaster in various films since 1995.

This client’s watch arrived showing some water ingress as the glass was steaming up. The watch was not working and clearly in need of work.

Inspection of the movement revealed some damage caused by water, though the water ingress was luckily relatively minor. These Omega Seamaster watches are powered by the Omega calibre 1120 movement – an automatic mechanical watch movement of excellent quality. This is a modified version of a movement produced by ETA – one of the top watch movement manufacturers. The modifications are designed to improve performance, with 23 jewels and a three arm Glucydur balance amongst the modifications made to the base movement.

To repair the watch it is first fully disassembled and each part inspected. Wear was found on some train wheels and the reverser. We also noted too much endshake on the fourth wheel and a mainspring in need of replacement. The disassembled movement is run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case and bracelet are cleaned in a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled with replacement parts fitted. To correct the endshake problem we adjust the fourth wheel jewel on the train bridge using a Horia jewelling tool. Once assembled the dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.

Once cased up we fine-tune the timekeeping to make sure the watch is as accurate as it can be. As this model is chronometer rated it is very accurate – when new it went through a series of strict tests to ensure excellent timekeeping accuracy. We always endeavour to get timekeeping as accurate as we can and various factors can affect this, including the calibre of the movement, age and condition of the watch.

One of the last elements of the job is to pressure test for water resistance. The Omega Seamaster is rated to 300m water resistant – we are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine. Finally we refit the bracelet before the watch will go on test prior to return to our client. It’s always a pleasure to work on an Omega Seamaster and this was no exception.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Ladies Omega Constellation Case and Bracelet Refurbishment

The refinishing of watch cases and bracelets is a skill set in its own right, separate from that of watchmaking. There are certain makes and models of watch we see for refinishing more than others – notable examples being the Rolex Datejust, Submariner and the Omega Seamaster. With each watch we need to use different skills, polishing wheels, mops and compounds to restore the finish back to a good standard.

When refinishing and restoring the aesthetic condition of a watch case and bracelet it is important to balance the level of wear and scratching, with the originality of the piece and value of the item. One must be realistic as to the level of finish it is possible to achieve.

We have the skills needed to refinish a range of different metals and style of watch case and bracelet. We also have the experience to advise when it’s best not to polish, or when to do so but only lightly. It can be a fine line, but unnecessary, ill-advised or poor-quality polishing can negatively impact on the value of a watch and be detrimental to the overall appearance.

This watch is a modern ladies Omega Constellation with a bicolour case and bracelet. The bracelet shows considerable scratching, though we should be able to improve on this quite significantly.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case and bracelet. Everything is taken apart and we disassemble the bracelet down to its individual components, separating out the gold bars from the steel links by removing the pins and tubes.

The refinishing process involves refinishing each component using our Durston double polishing motor. For the gold bars we use a special mop with a compound designed to give a stunning bright finish. To restore the brushed finish of the steel links we remove any major marks by hand before using a specialist graining wheel. Each link also has a slight high polished bevelled edge. We carefully polish this section taking care not to round the edge.

Once the refinishing is complete, a final ultrasonic clean is given. All the pins and tubes are also cleaned, this ensures everything is absolutely spotless. Once all components are dry we can begin the reassembly process, putting together the bracelet and refitting the movement into the case. We can then test for water resistance. Once fully reassembled, the results are truly stunning – a vast improvement and our client is sure to be delighted.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Service and Repair

We offer a full range of repairs in our fully equipped watch workshop – from part jobs like battery replacement through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands including Omega, Tag Heuer, Breitling and Rolex.

This job was an involved one – working on a Tag Heuer Lewis Hamilton Carrera Chronograph which arrived to us in poor condition. Our client wanted it restored and refurbished back to an excellent standard.

On arrival the entire case and bracelet were heavily marked and scuffed. In particular the fixed bezel was in poor condition. The crown was damaged and in need of replacement, plus the movement (a Tag Heuer calibre 16, based on an ETA 7750) was in desperate need of a service.

We are an authorised service centre for Tag Heuer, so we are able to order the required parts to complete this repair. We ordered a new bezel, crown, pushers and seals – these were all fitted as part of the job. Only authorised service centres can order these parts for Tag Heuer watches. We’ve been assessed by Tag Heuer so you can be confident we have the skills and correct brand specific tooling to repair your watch.

Alongside ordering in these parts, we refinished the watch case and bracelet. To do this we use a variety of different wheels and polishing compounds to achieve the desired finish. The bracelet on this watch has a brushed and high polish finish, so we mask off the bracelet in sections to create this effect.

Servicing the movement involved completely stripping down the Calibre 16 automatic chronograph movement. These are good quality movements with a considerable number of parts. Everything is checked and cleaned by hand, before being put through our watch movement cleaning machine. Reassembly and oiling can then take place. We use a variety of different lubricants and oils based on the part and function. We adhere to the manufacturers specification for this, as given on the movement data sheet.

Once the movement is serviced, we can begin complete reassembly. We reunite the movement, dial and hands with the newly refurbished case. We can then pressure test the complete watch for water resistance before it goes on test prior to collection by our client. A job well done – the watch looks fantastic after this intervention.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Omega Constellation Bicolour Case and Bracelet Refurbishment

One of the most requested jobs in our workshop is the refinishing of watch cases and bracelets. Watch polishing is a skill set in its own right, separate from those needed to effectively service and repair the watch mechanism.

While we as watchmakers are of course concerned with neat oiling and the movement being set up to optimal efficiency, this isn’t as obvious to most clients, besides being aware of if the watch is keeping time or not. The aesthetic condition of the case and bracelet however is most certainly noticeable, with marks and scratches very apparent. It’s inevitable scratches occur if a watch is worn regularly, and while some like to keep the “used” look, others like their watches to be polished.

We have the skills needed to refinish a range of different metals and style of watch case and bracelet. We also have the experience to advise when it’s best not to polish, or when to do so but only lightly. It can be a fine line, but unnecessary, ill-advised or poor-quality polishing can negatively impact on the value of a watch.

In this instance we have a ladies Omega Constellation for polishing. For this particular watch we needed to restore a high polish finish, and it’s absolutely an appropriate candidate for polishing.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case as necessary. Once the movement is removed and we’ve stripped the watch down to an appropriate level, we can give the case and bracelet an ultrasonic clean.

It’s important to note any major marks can be dealt with prior to polishing – we want to polish for as little time as possible but with maximum effect. In this instance the case and bracelet were scuffed up all over, but there wasn’t anything particularly major which needed dealing with beforehand.

The refinishing process involves stages of polishing using our Durston double polishing motor. Between each stage we ultrasonically clean the case and bracelet to avoid contaminating polishing mops with different compounds. For the final high polish finish we use Menzerna M5 compound – this has always given us excellent results.

Once the refinishing is complete, a final ultrasonic clean is given. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before drying.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Dunhill Mechanical Watch Service and Repair

A brand we occasionally see in the workshop is Dunhill. These watches are always excellent quality and this clients watch is no exception.

This watch is one of Dunhill’s Centenerary models – released in 1993 to mark the 100 year anniversary of the Dunhill brand. It’s a beautiful watch with an art deco style dial, stainless steel rectangular case and a quality Swiss mechanical movement. This watch arrived working but not keeping time. The case was rather scratched too, so a full service of the movement as well as a case and refinish was in order.

The movement powering this watch is an ETA calibre 2660. This is a hand-wound mechanical movement with 17 jewels, running at 28,800 beats per hour. It’s a 7¾ ligne movement, so a smaller sized watch movement.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils. We fit a new mainspring as part of the service to ensure the source of power is in as good a shape as possible.

To refinish the case it is disassembled and given a thorough ultrasonic clean before we commence the refinishing process. To do this we use our variable speed polishing machine in combination with various different polishing mops and compounds. After a final ultrasonic clean we can reassemble the watch.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

IWC Jump Hour Pocket Watch

Some pocket watches are far more than mere instruments of timekeeping. These mechanical marvels encapsulate history, craftsmanship, and nostalgia. Our meticulous process of disassembly, cleaning, and delicate repair, is often most challenging but also rewarding when we work on unusual vintage pieces, or those in particularly poor condition. This IWC Jump Hour pocket watch is certainly something we don’t see every day. The time is displayed in a digital style – with hours and minutes represented by numbers rather than hands pointing to numbers on the dial. This is a “Jump Hour” watch – meaning there isn’t a continuously moving hour indicator, the number jumps over to the next hour when the minutes change from “59” to “00”.

This watch was produced between 1885-1895, so it is over 130 years old. A similar steel-cased example with the same movement can be found in the British Museum’s collection. They describe the movement in remarkable detail, but to summarise: it is of excellent quality. Features include a club-toothed lever escapement, bi-metallic thermo-compensating balance and pin-set positive keyless works.

On arrival, this watch was in poor condition, with the bezel completely loose, a missing glass, and damage to the enamel dial. It needed careful restoration to get it back to excellent working order.

It’s important to be considered during a restoration like this. We must balance a number of factors including our client’s wishes, the reality of what’s feasible, and respecting the history and provenance of the watch in question. With this in mind, Works completed include full servicing, repair, and restoration of the movement, a sympathetic polish of the gold case, sourcing and fitting a new glass, and a repair where the enamel dial was broken.

It’s always a privilege to work on pieces like this – The end results really do speak for themselves. Another wonderful piece of history restored back to excellent working order for our delighted client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited