Category: Brands

Tudor is one of the top brands we see in our workshop. Since their re-launch in 2009 (see our blog post on the history of Tudor watches for more details), the popularity of Tudor has only increased.

This model is a vintage Oyster Prince dating from the 1970s. It’s a three hand watch (hour, minute and second hand) with no date complication. The movement is an ETA 2776 automatic with custom Tudor rotor. When well maintained these movements will last very well. Indeed, they are the predecessor to the ETA 2824-2 – a movement used in many watches produced to this day.

This watch was not working on arrival with us. Inspection of the movement revealed dried oils and greases, though nothing appeared to be broken. A full service was needed to get it back into working order.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

We use an Elmasolvex RM cleaning machine during the cleaning process. This is an automatic cleaning machine which uses a series of jars containing cleaning solution and rinse to gently but effectively clean and brighten the various components.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this as appropriate, though with vintage movements we use best practice as specific technical documentation may not be available. We fitted a new mainspring as part of the service.

The case and bracelet are given a thorough ultrasonic clean and we can then reassemble the complete watch. After a period on test both using manual winding and on our automatic winding machine, we can reunite this wonderful Tudor Oyster Prince with our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Unveiled in 2015, the Rolex Calibre 3235 represents a significant leap forward in the evolution of Rolex movements, combining cutting-edge technology with the brand’s timeless design aesthetic.

One of the standout features of the Calibre 3235 is its remarkable precision. Rolex is renowned for its stringent timekeeping standards, and the Calibre 3235 is no exception. The movement boasts an accuracy rate when new of -2/+2 seconds per day, surpassing the industry standard for chronometers. This remarkable precision is achieved through a combination of factors, including a high-precision balance wheel with a blue Parachrom hairspring and the brands patented Chronergy escapement. The movement beats at 28,800 beats per hour – this ensures exceptional stability, allowing the wearer to rely on their Rolex timepiece for precise timekeeping in any situation.

The Parachrom hairspring, made from a paramagnetic alloy, enhances the movement’s resistance to magnetic fields, a common challenge in modern environments filled with electronic devices such as mobile phones and smart speakers.

The Chronergy escapement, another hallmark of the Calibre 3235, improves energy efficiency and reduces friction. Crafted from a nickel-phosphorus alloy, this escapement enhances the movement’s longevity and reliability. With a power reserve from new of approximately 70 hours, the Calibre 3235 ensures that the timepiece can be set aside for a weekend and still maintain accurate timekeeping upon resumption of wear. Efficiency improvements include utilising a cut out design escape wheel and smaller pallets.

In addition to its technical prowess, the Calibre 3235 is a testament to Rolex’s dedication to innovation. The movement incorporates the brand’s patented Syloxi hairspring in the balance, a silicon-based component that further enhances resistance to temperature variations and shocks. This innovation not only improves the movement’s overall performance but also positions Rolex at the forefront of technological advancements within the watchmaking industry.

The Rolex Calibre 3235 movement stands as testament to the continuing pursuit of increased precision and innovation. As Rolex continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in horology, the Calibre 3235 serves as an example of the brand’s commitment to excellence, helping to set the standard for quality mechanical movements in the 21st century.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with luxury, precision, and craftsmanship. Patek has a storied history spanning over 180 years. Founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek in Geneva, Switzerland, the company has become one of the most prestigious and sought-after watchmakers in the world.

The early years of Patek Philippe were marked by the partnership between de Patek and Czapek. However, in 1844, Adrien Philippe, a French watchmaker, joined the company, and the brand evolved into Patek Philippe & Co. In 1851, Czapek left the company, leaving the stage for the iconic partnership between Patek and Philippe. This partnership laid the foundation for the brand’s commitment to innovation and excellence.

One of Patek Philippe’s groundbreaking inventions during this period was the keyless winding system, patented by Adrien Philippe in 1845. This revolutionary innovation eliminated the need for a key to wind the watch, paving the way for the development of modern winding mechanisms. The keyless winding system became a hallmark of Patek Philippe watches and set the brand apart from its competitors. Philippe received a coveted Bronze Medal for his inventions at the Industrial Exposition in Paris.

In 1868, Patek Philippe achieved another significant milestone by creating the first Swiss wristwatch, commissioned by Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. This early wristwatch was a bracelet watch with a baguette-shaped movement, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries witnessed Patek Philippe’s participation in various international exhibitions, where the brand consistently received accolades for its precision and innovation. The company also established itself as a favourite among royalty and dignitaries, further cementing its reputation for producing timepieces of unparalleled quality and craftsmanship.

The Great Depression and the two World Wars presented challenges for many industries, but Patek Philippe weathered these storms with resilience. The brand continued to innovate, introducing the Calatrava collection in 1932, which remains one of its most iconic and enduring lines.

Also during this period the Stern family, who had been dial suppliers for Patek Philippe, acquired the company. The Sterns brought stability and a renewed focus on the brand’s heritage, guiding Patek Philippe through the post-war era and into the modern age.

The latter half of the 20th century saw Patek Philippe continuing to innovate with numerous interesting models and movements, including the development of the ultra-thin Caliber 240 in 1977.

Patek Philippe’s commitment to uncompromising quality is epitomised by its adherence to the Patek Philippe Seal – a set of strict self-imposed quality standards. Each Patek Philippe timepiece is a work of art, created by master craftsmen using traditional techniques combined with cutting-edge technology.

Today, Patek Philippe watches are considered not just timepieces but also symbols of prestige and exclusivity. The brand’s commitment to innovation, precision, and timeless design has made it a favourite among collectors and connoisseurs, ensuring that the legacy of Patek Philippe will continue for generations to come.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

The history of Oris watches is a testament to Swiss watchmaking excellence, innovation, and a commitment to quality craftsmanship. Founded in the picturesque town of Hölstein in Switzerland in 1904, Oris has grown from a small workshop into a globally recognized brand known for its precision timepieces. Over the past century, Oris has weathered economic challenges, evolving tastes, and changing market dynamics, all while staying true to its core values.

The early years of Oris were marked by the visionary leadership of its founders, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian. The duo shared a passion for watchmaking and a determination to create high-quality, affordable watches. These watches were produced in the former Lohner & Co watch factory and the brand name Oris came from a brook close to the factory. By 1911 Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein, employing over 300 people. Continued success marked a number of additional Oris factories opening.

During the early-mid 20th century, Oris made significant strides in horological innovation. In 1938 the brand released the ‘Big Crown,’ a watch designed for aviators that featured a large crown for easy adjustment, even when wearing gloves. This model gained immense popularity and played a vital role in Oris’ reputation for producing reliable and functional timepieces. It was around this time that Oris also started to manufacture its own escapements.

The Great Depression and World War II posed challenges for many industries, including watchmaking. However, Oris persevered and continued to innovate. To keep the business alive they moved into alarm clocks – producing an 8 day power reserve model from 1949.

Post-war years saw Oris expanding its product range and international presence. The 1950s and 1960s were marked by iconic releases like their first automatic watch with a power reserve indicator – the movement was the calibre 601. During this period, Oris also established a foothold in international markets, exporting its Swiss-made timepieces worldwide.

The quartz crisis of the 1970s posed a significant threat to the Swiss watch industry as a whole. Many traditional watchmakers struggled to adapt to the advent of quartz technology, and Oris was no exception. During this difficult period they made the decision to remain committed to mechanical watches.

In the late 1990s, Oris experienced a renaissance. The company’s management underwent changes, and a renewed focus on design and innovation led to the launch of iconic collections like the Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five and the Artelier series. These watches paid homage to the brand’s heritage while incorporating contemporary design elements and modern technology.

Oris began getting involved in major partnerships to further promote the brand. They sponsored the London Jazz festival – beginning their production of jazz themed watches, as well as sponsoring various sporting events, people and teams, such as the Williams F1 team from 2003 onwards and the record breaking freediver Carlos Coste

Today, Oris watches are recognized for their precision, reliability, and commitment to sustainability. The brand is involved in various philanthropic initiatives, including marine conservation efforts and collaborations with non-profit organizations.

In conclusion, the history of Oris watches is a story of resilience, innovation, and a commitment to tradition. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein over a century ago, Oris has evolved into an independent global watchmaking powerhouse, known for its mechanical excellence, timeless designs, and dedication to environmental responsibility. As Oris continues to write new chapters in its history, it remains a beacon of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship and a symbol of enduring quality.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

The Tudor watch brand has a rich history dating back to 1926 when it was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary behind Rolex. Wilsdorf sought to create a more affordable line of watches without compromising on quality, and thus, Tudor was born.

The name “Tudor” was chosen to evoke the spirit of England’s Tudor period, a time known for its exploration and cultural renaissance. From its inception, Tudor focused on producing reliable timepieces that were robust, precise, and designed for everyday wear.

In the early years, Tudor watches (alongside Rolex) were known for their technical innovations. The Tudor Oyster was launched in 1947 – a patented design that provided exceptional water resistance. This innovation helped establish Tudor’s reputation for producing durable and reliable watches, capable of withstanding the most challenging conditions.

During the 1950s, Tudor further played off its sister company Rolex with the introduction of the Tudor Submariner – a diver’s watch that quickly gained popularity among both professional divers and enthusiasts. The Tudor Submariner featured a distinctive snowflake-shaped hour hand, which became an iconic design element of the brand. The watch’s robust construction and reliable performance made it a favourite among military personnel and adventurers.

In the 1960s, Tudor continued to expand its range of watches and, in 1970, introduced the manually wound Oysterdate Chronograph, a sporty timepiece with a bold and dynamic design. This Chronograph captured the spirit of the era, appealing to a younger, style-conscious audience. The brand’s commitment to producing high-quality watches at more accessible price points than Rolex helped Tudor carve out its own niche in the luxury watch market.

In the following decades, Tudor underwent various transitions and evolutions. The brand experienced a hiatus in the 1990s but made a triumphant comeback in 2009. The relaunch of Tudor was marked by the introduction of new models and an increased emphasis on design and innovation. Tudor watches began incorporating in-house movements, showcasing the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and technical expertise.

Tudor’s revival was met with great enthusiasm, and the brand continued to expand its offerings. It introduced new collections like the Tudor Heritage line, which paid homage to the brand’s iconic models from the past while incorporating modern elements. These timepieces combined vintage aesthetics with contemporary features, appealing to watch enthusiasts who appreciated the fusion of tradition and innovation.

Today, Tudor stands as a respected and sought-after watch brand in its own right. The brand has earned a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces that offer exceptional value for money. Tudor watches are celebrated for their reliability, precision, and enduring style.

With its distinct designs, technical innovations, and commitment to affordability, Tudor has established itself as a formidable player in the luxury watch industry. The brand’s heritage and connection to Rolex provide a strong foundation, while its continuous drive for innovation and creative design keep Tudor at the forefront of horological excellence.

Do you have a Tudor watch in need of repair? Get in touch and see how we can help. Our fully equipped, in-house workshop and highly trained watchmakers are able to repair almost any make and model of watch, modern or vintage. We offer a fully insured freepost repairs service, as well as the option to drop repairs off in-person via our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. We are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award – testament to the quality of our work and the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Cartier is a renowned luxury brand known for its exquisite jewellery and watches. The history of Cartier watches spans over a century and is marked by innovation, elegance, and a strong commitment to craftsmanship. From its humble beginnings in Paris to its status as a global icon, Cartier has established itself as one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world.

The story of Cartier watches dates back to 1847 when Louis-François Cartier took over his master’s workshop in Paris. Initially, the focus of the brand was primarily on jewellery, but it wasn’t long before watches became an integral part of the Cartier offering. In 1904, Louis Cartier, the grandson of the founder, designed the first wristwatch for his friend, the famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This revolutionary creation, known as the Santos de Cartier, was one of the earliest wristwatches made for men and marked the beginning of Cartier’s dominance in the watchmaking industry.

The success of the Santos de Cartier was followed by other iconic timepieces that cemented Cartier’s reputation as a pioneer in watch design. In 1917, the Tank watch was introduced, inspired by the shape of armoured military tanks used during World War I. Tank watch became an instant classic and over the years Cartier expanded its watch collection with various iterations of the Tank, including the Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Française, and Tank Américaine.

Cartier’s commitment to craftsmanship and innovation continued to drive its watchmaking endeavours. In the 1920s-30s the brand developed its line of mystery clocks, which featured hands that appeared to float on the dial without any visible connection to the movement. This optical illusion captivated the world and soon found its way into Cartier’s watches. The Mystery Clocks inspired the creation of the Mystery Watch, where the hands seemed to float magically on the dial. These timepieces showcased Cartier’s technical prowess and artistic finesse.

In the mid-20th century, Cartier collaborated with esteemed watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre which resulted in Jaeger-Le-Coultre produced watches sold and branded as Cartier. Cartier has a long history with Jaeger-Le-Coultre – in the early part of the century Cartier had an exclusivity agreement to use their movements for well over a decade.

In modern times Cartier continues to innovate and create extraordinary timepieces. The brand has incorporated various complications into its watches, such as chronographs, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars. Additionally, Cartier has expanded its watchmaking expertise to include fine watchmaking pieces, which combine haute horlogerie techniques with artistic creativity.

Throughout its history, Cartier watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, celebrities, and discerning individuals worldwide. The brand’s commitment to quality, precision, and timeless design has made it a symbol of luxury and sophistication. From the iconic Tank and Santos de Cartier to the high complication watches, Cartier’s timepieces have become coveted collector’s items.

Do you have a Cartier watch in need of repair? Get in touch and see how we can help. Our fully equipped, in-house workshop and highly trained watchmakers are able to repair almost any make and model of watch, modern or vintage. We offer a fully insured freepost repairs service, as well as the option to drop repairs off in-person via our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. We are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award – testament to the quality of our work and the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

The Longines watch company is a Swiss luxury watch brand that has been around for over 180 years. The company was founded in 1832 in the town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz, who had experience in the watchmaking industry. The company quickly gained a reputation for producing high quality watches that were both accurate and reliable.

Longines produced its first chronograph watch in 1868 which was used to time horse races. This was the beginning of a long history of the brand’s association with sports, particularly equestrianism. The company also became known for producing elegant and stylish watches for men and women.

In 1912 Longines became an official supplier of the International Aeronautical Federation and began producing aviation watches. These watches were designed to be both accurate and easy to read, even in low light conditions. Longines went on to become the official timekeeper of several aviation events, including the first transatlantic flight.

During World War II, Longines produced watches for the RAF, the US Army Air Force, and the French Air Force. These watches were designed to be rugged and reliable, and they were used by pilots and other military personnel. We still see these watches on a fairly regular basis in our workshop – testament to their rugged design!

In the post-war years, Longines continued to innovate and produce high-quality watches. In 1952, the company introduced the Calibre 30CH – an automatic chronograph movement, which was a major milestone in the history of the brand.

Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Longines continued to produce a wide range of watches for both men and women. The company also expanded its sports-related activities, becoming the official timekeeper of several international sports events, including the Olympic Games.

In 1983, Longines was acquired by the Swatch Group, which is one of the largest watchmaking companies in the world. Under Swatch Group ownership, Longines continued to produce high-quality watches and expand its sports-related activities. The company became the official timekeeper of several major international sporting events, including the Commonwealth Games and the World Equestrian Games.

Today, Longines is known for producing elegant and sophisticated watches that combine traditional watchmaking techniques with modern technology. The company’s watches are highly sought after by collectors and watch enthusiasts, and they are often seen on the wrists of celebrities and public figures. Popular Longines models include the Conquest, Les Classiques, Evidenza and Dolce Vita.

Do you have a Longines watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. Our fully equipped workshop based in Lewes, Sussex and expert watchmakers are able to repair almost any make and model of watch, modern or vintage. We accept repairs through our stores in Lewes and Uckfield as well as from clients all around the UK via our fully insured, secure postal repairs service. We are Business Partners of the British Horological Association and holders of a Platinum Trusted Service award from Feefo – testament of our commitment to excellent work and exceptional customer service.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited