Breitling Watches History

Breitling are one of the top watch brands we see in our workshop. Their watches are large and uncompromising, with top quality components and bold designs. But where did Breitling come from? In this blog post we’ll briefly delve into a select history of Breitling watches.

Breitling was founded in the Swiss town of Saint-Imier by Léon Breitling in 1884, where he opened his first workshop at Place Neuve 1. From this workshop he began working on designing and producing the earliest Breitling models. By 1892 he was at a point where his success was being hampered by the small premises, so production was moved to La Chaux-de-Fonds and a fully fledged watch factory was opened.

In these early years Breitling was ahead of his time in both marketing nous and with some of his watch designs. He was known for his top quality chronographs and timers and used his marketing savvy to develop the brand. Even amongst fellow watchmakers Breitling advertised his wares – for example he placed an ad singing the praises of his brand in the first edition of  the Revue Internationale de L’horlogerie et des Branches Annexes (the International Journal of Watchmaking and Related Sectors) published in January 1900.

When Léon died in 1914, the business passed on to his son Gaston, and in 1915 under his stewardship Breitling introduced a wristwatch featuring a chronograph complication. This watch had a pusher located at the two o’clock position to control start/stop/reset of the chronograph functions. By 1923 these functions were separated, with the crown now incorporating the reset function. The chronograph refinement further continued under Willy Breitling (who took over after Gaston in 1935) – he had the idea of adding the second pusher at 4 o’clock – with this design now being the norm for chronographs across almost all brands to this day.

Breitling Logo

Breitling is synonymous with aviation – this is largely thanks to the efforts of Willy Breitling in the 1940s, who established Breitling as a major player in the production of top quality aircraft instrumentation. Breitling supplied the British Air Ministry and many other armed forces too. By the 1950s, Breitling had developed the Navitimer – a wrist-worn chronograph capable of performing all flight calculations a pilot required to make. Breitling watches became the go-to brand for pilots – widely adopted by aviation fanatics all around the world.

In 1969 Breitling collaborated with a number of other major players in the watchmaking world to produce the ground-breaking Chrono-Matic – a self-winding chronograph. The crown was on the left hand side of the case, the pushers on the right.

Breitling weathered the quartz crisis of the 1970s/80s by positioning the brand as producing “instruments for professionals” – high-quality timepieces professionals can rely on. Breitling even embraced quartz technology with some of their models, though the always maintained mechanical watch production too.

Another notable Breitling model was introduced initially in 1988 before more widely in 1995 – the Breitling Emergency. The Emergency was the first watch to be equipped with an integrated radio transmitter. When activated this transmitter sends a distress signal to the international air distress frequency, giving the wearer’s location to search and rescue teams.

In recent years Breitling have undergone a couple of ownership changes, with the latest owners only taking control in December 2022. With a rich history of innovative watchmaking and uncompromising designs, it’s no surprises Breitling are still one of the most desirable watch brands on the market. From our perspective they’re a pleasure to work on.

Do you have a Breitling watch in need of repair? Get in touch with us today and see how we can help. From our shops in Lewes and Uckfield we accept repairs from our local clients. We also provide a fully insured, freepost watch repairs service to clients all around the UK. We are experienced watchmakers and Business Partners of the British Horological Institute – one of the driving forces for quality horology in the United Kingdom. We are also holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award , so you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Vintage Omega Geneve Restoration

We receive a huge spectrum of watches through our stores in Lewes and Uckfield, as well as through our postal repairs service. The postal service is fully insured and completely free – Using this we accept repairs from all around the UK.

This watch is a vintage Omega Geneve from the 1970s. It arrived in poor aesthetic condition and in need of some work to the movement to get it back to excellent working order. It’s rewarding work repairing watches and it’s especially so when tackling a big project like this one.

To restore this watch it needed a full service and mainspring, polishing and re-plating of the gold plated case, a new Omega crown, a new tension ring plexi-glass dome and restoration of the watch dial.

We work in conjunction with a fantastic dial restorer, so once the watch is disassembled we’re able to have the dial restored while we service the movement. To restore the dial it is stripped down and cleaned before work is conducted to restore the surface of the dial as best possible. The colour and finish is the applied, before the cleaned and restored indices are re-attached.

To take care of the case work we clean up and polish the case before the case is electro-plated. This process uses some rather nasty chemicals, so it’s a job we tackle in conjunction with a specialist plater. It’s important to ensure the case finishing is to a good standard before plating, as you can’t extensively polish the case after plating.

Vintage Omega Geneve

The movement in this watch is an Omega calibre 1030 – a manual wind, good quality 17 jewel movement with a date. These movements are interesting for the huge fake bridge Omega fitted in the space where the automatic mechanism would otherwise go (these movements were a later spin-off of the automatic 1000 series).

When we service the movement it is completely disassembled before being run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, before being adjusted and tested.

All that’s left to do is to reunite all the elements of the watch. During this process we fit the new glass and the new crown – these touches finish the watch off very nicely. For a watch which is 50 years old, it is looking absolutely fantastic again for our client.

Do you have an Omega in need of repair? From vintage to modern pieces, we are able to help. Thanks to our fully insured, freepost watch repairs service we are able to accept watches from all around the UK. We also accept repairs through our two stores in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. Our business is long established and we are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute, as well as holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award. You can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Steel and Ceramic Formula One Refurbishment

Tag Heuer watches are a regular fixture in our workshop. We see watches from across their full range – both modern and vintage. As we hold a parts account with Tag Heuer we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts to repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer watch is a Formula One model with a ceramic and stainless steel case and bracelet. It’s a chronograph model, with a date located between the 4 and 5 o’clock position. It was working on arrival, though the case and bracelet showed a number of scratches to the stainless steel sections.

Tag Heuer F1 Before

To restore this watch back to excellent condition we refurbished the case and bracelet, fitted new seals for water resistance, checked and tested the movement, and fitted a new battery before a final pressure test to confirm water resistance.

To refinish the case and bracelet we completely disassemble the watch – removing each case part we can, before progressively refinishing each component. We use our Durston double polishing motor and work our way through different polishing compounds before using Menzerna M5 for the final high polish. Once the refinishing of each part of the case is complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the watch is a matter of simply reversing the disassembly, though we fit the new seals as we go.

Testing the movement involves using our Elma Watch-Master quartz testing machine. We are able to compare the readings from a variety of tests to the manufacturers specifications in order to confirm the watch is operating as it should be.

After the work is complete, the results speak for themselves. We pressure tested the watch using our state-of-the-art Sigma pressure testing machine and it is now confirmed as water resistant as per the original rating.

Tag Heuer F1 After

If you have a Tag Heuer in need of repair – do get in touch. We offer a comprehensive range of watch repairs. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service, as well as to walk in clients through our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex.  As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us. We are also Business Partners of the British Horological Institute – the standard bearers for quality watchmaking and repairs in the UK.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Steel and Ceramic Formula One Refurbishment

Tag Heuer watches are a regular fixture in our workshop. We see watches from across their full range – both modern and vintage. As we hold a parts account with Tag Heuer we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts to repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer watch is a Formula One model with a ceramic and stainless steel case and bracelet. It’s a chronograph model, with a date located between the 4 and 5 o’clock position. It was working on arrival, though the case and bracelet showed a number of scratches to the stainless steel sections.

To restore this watch back to excellent condition we refurbished the case and bracelet, fitted new seals for water resistance, checked and tested the movement, and fitted a new battery before a final pressure test to confirm water resistance.

To refinish the case and bracelet we completely disassemble the watch – removing each case part we can, before progressively refinishing each component. We use our Durston double polishing motor and work our way through different polishing compounds before using Menzerna M5 for the final high polish. Once the refinishing of each part of the case is complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Tag Heuer Steel and Ceramic Formula One Watch

Reassembling the watch is a matter of simply reversing the disassembly, though we fit the new seals as we go.

Testing the movement involves using our Elma Watch-Master quartz testing machine. We are able to compare the readings from a variety of tests to the manufacturers specifications in order to confirm the watch is operating as it should be.

After the work is complete, the results speak for themselves. We pressure tested the watch using our state-of-the-art Sigma pressure testing machine and it is now confirmed as water resistant as per the original rating.

If you have a Tag Heuer in need of repair – do get in touch. We offer a comprehensive range of watch repairs. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service, as well as to walk in clients through our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex.  As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us. We are also Business Partners of the British Horological Institute – the standard bearers for quality watchmaking and repairs in the UK.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Repair and Restoration

A recent job we had in the workshop involved restoring this beautiful ladies Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 2 Tone watch. This watch needed a lot of work – the watch was not functional on arrival in the workshop. On top of this, the bracelet was stretched and worn. This absolutely needed attention in order for the watch to be secure when on the wrist.

To tackle such a job we split the work into stages – the restoration and refinishing of the case and bracelet, and the servicing and repair of the intricate mechanism.

To restore such a worn bracelet takes a significant amount of time. Each link of the jubilee bracelet needed to be carefully broken down into it’s individual components, and the steel pins holding the links together are replaced. These pins were in places almost worn through. As part of the bracelet restoration process we carefully refinish the case and bracelet back to a good standard – using a selection of different polishing mops and compounds to achieve the correct finish for this watch.

Rolex full image

Inspection of the movement found it to most certainly be in need of a thorough service. Pivots which should be clean and nicely oiled were running dry, with residue of old oils and greases broken down and further interfering with the smooth running of the mechanism. The rotor axle – the pivot point for the rotor (the oscillating weight which winds the watch as it is worn) – was worn out, so this needed replacing, as did the mainspring.

To rectify these issues the entire watch movement is stripped apart, before going through a full cleaning cycle in a specialist watch movement cleaning machine. The movement is then carefully reassembled, with oils and greases used in certain places to ensure optimal performance of the watch for a full service interval.

After all the work was completed, the watch undergoes rigorous testing for timekeeping. It is initially regulated by our watchmaker and checked in multiple positions to ensure it is performing as expected. It then is testing for automatic winding on our Elma Cyclomotion winding machine, as well as for power reserve and performance after 24 hours has elapsed.

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date is now back to an excellent standard and ready for many more years of wear.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Repair and Restoration

One of the brands we frequently see in our workshop is Tag Heuer. Tag Heuer in its modern form was established in 1985, though the Heuer company has existed since 1860. Watches are produced both with quartz and automatic movements in a variety of different models including the Aquaracer, Kirium, F1, Link, 2000 Series and Carrera.

As experienced watchmakers, we are able to repair almost any watch – both modern and vintage. As we hold a parts account with Tag Heuer we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts to repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer watch arrived in the workshop in poor condition. While we positively encourage regular use of watches – especially hardy, water resistant models like this one – it is necessary to give your watch a bit of TLC every once in a while. That means checking over the watch and giving it a clean to remove any dirt. If dirt is allowed to build up, it can mask problems as well as cause issues in its own right.

Tag Heuer Blue Face

This watch hadn’t been cleaned in some years, so the build up of dirt all over the case and bracelet was quite considerable. It had clearly been well used, with significant scratches all over the watch, including on the bezel. The clasp did not function properly and this watch did not pass testing for water resistance.

We needed a large number of parts to restore this watch back to a good standard for our client. We refinished the case and bracelet as best possible and gave them a thorough clean. We fitted a new bezel, movement, crown and stem, clasp and a complete set of seals.

After the work is complete, the results speak for themselves. We pressure tested the watch using our state-of-the-art Sigma pressure testing machine and it is not water resistant as per the original rating.

With the correct tooling and our Tag Heuer parts account, we are able to obtain many parts and repair almost any Tag Heuer watch. In addition to the jobs completed on this watch, We can, for example, replace dials, hands, pushers, glasses and links; as well as offer repairs to the movement itself.

Suffice to say, if you have a Tag Heuer in need of repair – do get in touch! We offer a comprehensive range of watch repairs. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service, as well as to walk in clients through our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex.  As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us. We are also Business Partners of the British Horological Institute – the standard bearers for quality watchmaking and repairs in the UK.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Longines Evidenza Watch Repair

We receive a huge spectrum of watches through our stores in Lewes and Uckfield, as well as through our postal repairs service. The postal service is fully insured and completely free – Using this we accept repairs from all around the UK. One watch we’ve recently had in the workshop for repair is a wonderful gold ladies Longines Evidenza.

The Longines Evidenza range was launched in 2003 and soon developed a huge number of fans. The distinctive case shape and elegant design make this range suitable for the most sophisticated of occasions. This particular model is crafted in 18ct gold, with a blued hour, minute and second hand, and a date function at the 6 o’clock position.

Powering this watch is the Longines L595.2 movement, which is based on an ETA calibre 2000-1. This is a reliable, small automatic movement, which owes much of its design to the larger ETA 2892-2 movement found in many quality gents automatic watches. The calibre 2000-1 splits watchmakers, as the design is such that many wheels are fixed directly to bridges. Were one of these wheels to need replacing, this means the entire bridge needs to be swapped.

Longines Evidenza Banner

On inspection of the movement there were no major issues to note – the watch was working, though the reading on our timegrapher was very poor, showing extremely low amplitude. This watch needed a full service and a fresh mainspring. During a full service we completely disassemble the movement and run it through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. We also run the case through a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, before being adjusted and tested.

Once the dial and hands are refitted to the movement, the entire watch is then cased up. With everything back together we test the watch using our specialist automatic watch testing machine. This simulates the movement of the watch on your wrist and allows us to confirm the automatic winding mechanism is operating correctly, as well as to confirm the timekeeping is within acceptable tolerances for the movement calibre.

Do you have a Longines watch in need of repair? From vintage to modern pieces, we are able to help. Thanks to our fully insured, freepost watch repairs service we are able to accept watches from all around the UK. We also accept repairs through our two stores in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. Our business is long established and we are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute, as well as holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award. You can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Breitling Superocean Watch Service and Repair

Another top brand we regularly see in our workshop is Breitling. Breitling watches are excellent quality and the brand is known primarily for their aviation inspired models.

The watch with us for repair today is a Breitling Superocean. As the name would suggest, the Superocean is actually a watch designed for use in water – these watches have a high degree of water resistance and this model’s yellow dial and luminous hands/numbers makes it very legible even in low light conditions.

Initial inspection revealed the watch to not be working. The hands and date setting were functional, but there was an awful lot of resistance when attempting to manually wind the watch. The movement (based on an ETA calibre 2824-2) hadn’t been serviced in many years – there was a fair amount of debris alongside the usual dried up oils and greases too. A full service and fresh mainspring was in order!

Breitling Superocean Watch

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils.

The case and bracelet are given a thorough ultrasonic clean and we can then reassemble the complete watch. After pressure testing for water resistance, this wonderful Breitling Superocean goes on our automatic watch testing machine as part of its final testing before release to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Vintage Longines watch servicing blog post

We deal with a huge variety of watches in our workshop, from modern Omega and Rolex through to vintage wrist and pocket watches. Vintage watches often need extra special care and attention, especially if the watch has not been regularly serviced over the years.

This watch is a vintage Longines model dating from the mid 1960s. It has a gold case and a crosshair style dial with a subsidiary second hand. On inspection of the watch it did work given a wind, though the timekeeping was very poor – out by approximately two minutes a day depending on the position. The movement (a Longines calibre 30L) was in good aesthetic condition, though the oils and greases used to keep everything working properly were rather old, so were acting to gum up the mechanism and increase friction. A full service was in order, alongside a light polish of the case.

To service the movement it is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The disassembled movement is then run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case was cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. After an initial clean everything is checked before it then goes through a final cleaning cycle.

While everything is disassembled we give the case a polish. To do this, the case is separated into its individual components and given a polish using the appropriate wheels and polishing compound for the case material. As this is a gold case it’s very easy to over-polish due to the softness of the metal, so we’re careful to avoid this. After polishing is complete we use our ultrasonic cleaner to again clean the case, plus we steam clean afterwards to remove any remnants of polishing compound.

Longines watch face and internals

After the movement is completely clean, it’s time to begin reassembly and oiling. The movement is rebuilt in stages, with everything checked to ensure it is just as it should be before moving on to the next stage. Once the movement is back together, the dial and hands are then refitted before the watch is cased up. At over 55 years old, this watch is back to both working and looking fantastic.

Do you have a Longines, or in fact any vintage watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director