Month: April 2023

One popular service we offer in our workshop is the polishing and refinishing of the case and bracelet of a watch. This involves using a selection of different polishing mops, wheels and compounds to restore the finish of your watch back to a good standard.

A recent job involved doing just this to a Rolex Explorer watch. This watch didn’t look like it had seen particularly heavy wear, so in these instances it is possible to achieve an excellent standard of finish. Were, for example, the watch to be heavily dented and scratched, a certain level of realistic expectations would be required as the refinishing work would be a compromise between maintaining the shape and dimensions of the case vs removing all of the various dents and scratches.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case – so this means removing the bezel, glass and case tube. Once the case is down to its individual components, we are able to give everything a clean before we begin the polishing process.

The refinishing process involves progressively polishing the different elements of the case using a few different techniques. This is all done using our Twin-Spindle polishing machine. Our preference is to use Menzerna polishing compounds, though there are other manufacturers who offer comparable products. We also need to apply a grained finish to parts like the bracelet. This is done with a Bergeon graining wheel of the correct type to match the original finish.

Once the refinishing of each part of the case and bracelet are complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the case is a matter of initially refitting the case tube and glass, before then fitting the friction fit bezel. Once this is done the movement can be re-installed into the case, before the case back is fitted and the watch tested for water resistance. The watch is also checked on our timegrapher to confirm the timekeeping is still excellent. We now refit the bracelet. Once fully reassembled, this watch is ready for testing before release to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

A top brand we regularly see in our workshop is Cartier. Cartier watches are excellent quality and the brand is synonymous with stunning design, style and sophistication.

This watch is one of Cartier’s most popular models – the Tank Francaise. This watch arrived working but not keeping time. The case and bracelet were scratched all over, so a full service of the movement as well as a case and bracelet refinish was in order.

The movement powering this watch is based on the ETA 2000-1. This is a small automatic movement with bidirectional winding, hacking and a 40 hour power reserve.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils.

To refinish the case and bracelet, these are disassembled and given a thorough ultrasonic clean before we commence the refinishing process. To do this we use our variable speed polishing machine in combination with a variety of different polishing mops and compounds. To achieve the brushed finish we mask off the polished sections and use a special graining wheel on the relevant sections of the case and bracelet. After a final ultrasonic clean we can reassemble the watch.

After reassemble and testing, we check for water resistance using our Sigma pressure testing machine.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex as a brand need no introduction – their watches are exceptional quality and well worth maintaining. They often become heirlooms passed down between generations. In this instance we have a vintage model with an unusual custom Mickey Mouse dial on the bench.

This watch is an Oysterdate Precision, model reference 6694. It dates from 1982, so it’s just over 40 years old. On arrival with us it was ticking, though timekeeping was extremely unreliable. There was also a problem with the crown, which would no longer screw down onto the case tube. The movement is a calibre 1225 – a Rolex manual wind movement with a sweep seconds and date function.

On inspection of the movement it was clear this watch had not been serviced in many years. The oils and greases crucial for the correct functioning of the watch were completely dried up. The fault with the crown was also identified – the thread on the crown was completely worn out. We are able to source and fit replacement crowns for this model, so this part was ordered in.

A full service of the movement involves complete disassembly, with each part carefully inspected for wear. Once everything is stripped down, we run the parts through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. The cleaning machine uses a series of jars containing specialised cleaning or rinsing fluids to give everything a thorough clean. We combine the use of the cleaning machine with a form of manual cleaning during the disassembly process – this way be can be certain we’ll have spotlessly clean parts when we get to the reassembly stage.

After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fitted a new mainspring. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch – the mainspring is the source of power for the movement after all. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands are fitted.

The watch case and bracelet are thoroughly cleaned and dried, before the watch is fully reassembled, plus the replacement crown fitted.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

After a full service and new mainspring, a clean of the case and bracelet, plus a new crown, this beautiful Rolex Mickey Mouse Oysterdate Precision is running very nicely once again.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited