A brand we occasionally see in the workshop is Dunhill. These watches are always excellent quality and this clients watch is no exception.
This watch is one of Dunhill’s Centenerary models – released in 1993 to mark the 100 year anniversary of the Dunhill brand. It’s a beautiful watch with an art deco style dial, stainless steel rectangular case and a quality Swiss mechanical movement. This watch arrived working but not keeping time. The case was rather scratched too, so a full service of the movement as well as a case and refinish was in order.
The movement powering this watch is an ETA calibre 2660. This is a hand-wound mechanical movement with 17 jewels, running at 28,800 beats per hour. It’s a 7¾ ligne movement, so a smaller sized watch movement.
The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.
After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils. We fit a new mainspring as part of the service to ensure the source of power is in as good a shape as possible.
To refinish the case it is disassembled and given a thorough ultrasonic clean before we commence the refinishing process. To do this we use our variable speed polishing machine in combination with various different polishing mops and compounds. After a final ultrasonic clean we can reassemble the watch.
The Tudor watch brand has a rich history dating back to 1926 when it was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary behind Rolex. Wilsdorf sought to create a more affordable line of watches without compromising on quality, and thus, Tudor was born.
The name “Tudor” was chosen to evoke the spirit of England’s Tudor period, a time known for its exploration and cultural renaissance. From its inception, Tudor focused on producing reliable timepieces that were robust, precise, and designed for everyday wear.
In the early years, Tudor watches (alongside Rolex) were known for their technical innovations. The Tudor Oyster was launched in 1947 – a patented design that provided exceptional water resistance. This innovation helped establish Tudor’s reputation for producing durable and reliable watches, capable of withstanding the most challenging conditions.
During the 1950s, Tudor further played off its sister company Rolex with the introduction of the Tudor Submariner – a diver’s watch that quickly gained popularity among both professional divers and enthusiasts. The Tudor Submariner featured a distinctive snowflake-shaped hour hand, which became an iconic design element of the brand. The watch’s robust construction and reliable performance made it a favourite among military personnel and adventurers.
In the 1960s, Tudor continued to expand its range of watches and, in 1970, introduced the manually wound Oysterdate Chronograph, a sporty timepiece with a bold and dynamic design. This Chronograph captured the spirit of the era, appealing to a younger, style-conscious audience. The brand’s commitment to producing high-quality watches at more accessible price points than Rolex helped Tudor carve out its own niche in the luxury watch market.
In the following decades, Tudor underwent various transitions and evolutions. The brand experienced a hiatus in the 1990s but made a triumphant comeback in 2009. The relaunch of Tudor was marked by the introduction of new models and an increased emphasis on design and innovation. Tudor watches began incorporating in-house movements, showcasing the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and technical expertise.
Tudor’s revival was met with great enthusiasm, and the brand continued to expand its offerings. It introduced new collections like the Tudor Heritage line, which paid homage to the brand’s iconic models from the past while incorporating modern elements. These timepieces combined vintage aesthetics with contemporary features, appealing to watch enthusiasts who appreciated the fusion of tradition and innovation.
Today, Tudor stands as a respected and sought-after watch brand in its own right. The brand has earned a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces that offer exceptional value for money. Tudor watches are celebrated for their reliability, precision, and enduring style.
With its distinct designs, technical innovations, and commitment to affordability, Tudor has established itself as a formidable player in the luxury watch industry. The brand’s heritage and connection to Rolex provide a strong foundation, while its continuous drive for innovation and creative design keep Tudor at the forefront of horological excellence.
Do you have a Tudor watch in need of repair? Get in touch and see how we can help. Our fully equipped, in-house workshop and highly trained watchmakers are able to repair almost any make and model of watch, modern or vintage. We offer a fully insured freepost repairs service, as well as the option to drop repairs off in-person via our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. We are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award – testament to the quality of our work and the service we provide.
Our on-site workshop in Lewes, East Sussex offer a full range of watch repairs to mechanical and quartz watches, both modern and vintage. We are equipped with some of the latest watchmaking tools and equipment, including an Elma Solvex movement cleaning machine, Witschi Watch Expert IV and a Sigma pressure testing machine capable of testing watches rated at up to 300m water resistant.
To be involved in horology it really is a passion – this means we are always on the lookout for anything related to our profession. Alongside our workshop we have a collection of antique clocks from our local area, as well as various pieces of vintage watchmaking memorabilia. One of our recent acquisitions came from when we cleared an old jewellers in Eastbourne – it’s a watch repairs price list from pre-decimalisation.
The price list is made of enamel and it does have a large amount of damage, though we feel this rather adds to the charm. Prices are listed in shillings and pence, with cleaning of a “Geneva” watch costing 2 shillings and a Lever watch 2 shillings and 6 pence. We particularly like the “best materials only used” text at the bottom of the price list.
When found this item was not framed and it needed some cleaning up in order to make it presentable. So after it was given a clean, we used the services of a fantastic local framing company – Kings Framers – here in Lewes. This needed to be specially framed as it’s quite a thick sign. Kings Framers really did a fantastic job and we feel the black and gold frame really sets it off nicely. After framing we just needed to find a home on our wall – it’s now in a prominent position near the workshop door.
