Month: March 2023

We often see Tudor watches in our workshop. Tudor as a brand need no introduction – the brand is often uttered in the same breath as Rolex, and Tudor is likewise synonymous with high-quality, luxury timepieces. These watches are well worth maintaining and often become heirlooms passed down between generations. In this instance we have a vintage model in rather poor condition – a Tudor Oysterthin.

On initial assessment this watch was not functional. Removal of the case back opened a bit of a horror show, with the Tudor calibre 2402 manual wind movement showing significant water damage. Almost everything was damaged, with only a few components suitable for re-use. When a watch is so damaged, our options for repair are limited. We of course want to preserve as much of the original watch as possible, but a watch is also a functional item, so it needs to work correctly! We secured a vintage donor movement of the same calibre to use for parts – we did everything possible to preserve originality but parts like the water damaged wheels absolutely needed to be replaced.

The parts we were able to save from the original movement were thoroughly de-rusted and cleaned by hand, before going through a cycle in the watch movement cleaning machine. These were then checked after cleaning, before combining with the donor components for another round in the cleaning machine. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fitted a new mainspring. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch – the mainspring is the source of power for the movement after all. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands – which have been given a gentle clean but not a complete restoration, as per our clients request – are refitted and the watch is cased up.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer watches are one of the brands we see the most in our workshop. We receive watches from across their full range of models – be it a Monaco, 2000 Series, F1, Link or Aquaracer. As we hold a parts account with Tag Heuer we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts to repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer watch is an Aquaracer with a stainless steel case and bracelet. It’s a quartz three hand model – as in it has an hour, minute and second hand, as well as a date located at the conventional 3 o’clock position. It was working on arrival, though the case and bracelet showed significant amount of wear.

To restore this watch back to excellent condition we refurbished the case and bracelet, checked and tested the movement, fitted a new battery and fitted new seals before a final pressure test to confirm water resistance.

To refinish the case and bracelet we completely disassemble the watch – removing each case part we can, before progressively refinishing each component. We use our Durston double polishing motor and work our way through different polishing compounds and mops. To recreate the brushed finish we need to mask off the high polished sections, before then using a graining wheel on the respective sections of the case and bracelet. Once the refinishing of each part of the case is complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the watch is a matter of simply reversing the disassembly, though we fit the new seals as we go and ensure grease is applied where necessary.

When fitting a new battery we found the old one was just starting to leak, so it was fortuitous the watch was with us before any major damage could be caused. We replaced the battery isolator and made sure everything was clean before proceeding onto testing the movement. Testing involves using our Elma Watch-Master quartz testing machine. We are able to compare the readings from a variety of tests to the manufacturers specifications in order to confirm the watch is operating as it should be.

After the work is complete, the results speak for themselves – a significant improvement! Finally we pressure tested the watch using our state-of-the-art Sigma pressure testing machine. This allows us to test watches up to a rating of 300m water resistant – the original water resistance rating for this Tag Heuer Aquaracer.

If you have a Tag Heuer Aquaracer in need of repair – do get in touch. We offer a comprehensive range of watch repairs. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service, as well as to walk in clients through our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex.  As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us. We are also Business Partners of the British Horological Institute – the standard bearers for quality watchmaking and repairs in the UK.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We offer a full range of repairs in our fully equipped watch workshop – from part jobs like battery replacement through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands including Omega, Tag Heuer, Breitling and Rolex.

This job was an interesting one as it involved working on a Hanhart Pioneer Chronograph which was only a few months old. As our client had purchased the watch abroad, he wanted us to take care of the repair rather than ship the watch to another country and potentially lose his watch for a number of months. It arrived in the workshop completely stopped – extremely unusual for an almost new watch! Changing the position of the watch found it to start and stop depending on the position being tested.

On opening the case the movement was identified as a Sellita SW-510 – a mechanical chronograph movement based on the 7750 – a chronograph movement we regularly work on. The problem almost immediately presented itself, as with the watch dial down, it was working, albeit with a notable issue – the top balance jewel was moving around in the Incabloc shock protection setting.

Before the introduction of shock protection, one of the most common causes of a mechanical watch stopping was an impact or shock causing the balance to break. A watch balance generally has a large diameter and mass, but in order to keep friction to an absolute minimum it rotates on fine pivots. As such, were the watch to receive a knock, this combination of factors makes the balance prime for a broken pivot.

The Incabloc system is highly effective – it provides protection against shocks from all directions. It does this by allowing the chaton – in which the jewels sit (and the balance pivot rotates in the jewel hole) – to move, rather than the shock to be absorbed directly by the pivots.

We opened the lyre-shaped Incabloc spring and removed the jewel, checking Bloc for damage. With no damage noted, everything was reseated and the spring secured. The balance now was oscillating as it should, with no lateral movement of the jewels in the Bloc. Our conclusion is that the watch received a fairly substantial knock and the Incabloc system worked – protecting the balance though compromising the correct seating of the spring itself.

Note there are numerous other shock protection systems besides Incabloc, though they tend to operate based on a similar principle. Other major systems include Kif, Novodiac, Paraflex and Duofix.

After checking the rest of the movement and testing the watch on our timegrapher, we were happy to re-fit the case back and pressure test this fantastic Hanhart watch for water resistance. Now it goes “on test” to confirm our intervention has fully corrected the fault before return to our client.

Do you have a Hanhart watch in need of repair? Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we are experts in the repair of all makes and models of watch – from vintage pocket watches through to modern big name brands like Tag Heuer, Omega and Rolex. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service to clients all around the UK. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited