Sewills Admiralty Ark Royal Case Refinishing and Replating

A recent job in the workshop involved the refinishing and re-plating of a vintage Sewills watch. We are asked about re-plating watch cases on a fairly regular basis. It’s a job which requires specialist equipment, hazardous chemicals and a good knowledge of the process and pitfalls in order to achieve excellent results.

The first step was to remove the ETA 2824-2 movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case – so this means removing everything we can, including the glass. This watch has a stainless steel case back, so this does not need plating and it can be refinished/polished in the conventional manner.

Before we can commence plating we need to ensure the case is refinished back to a good standard. Re-plating does not hide any of the existing blemishes, marks and scratches. These all need to be dealt with otherwise the case will look poor after plating is complete. We use a variety of methods to remove the scratches and to ensure we maintain the profile of the case. In some areas we use hand tools and sandpaper, whereas in others we can use a special wheel on our polishing motor.

Watch replating before and after

Once the case has been stripped back to the base metal with the scratches removed, that’s when we are able to polish. For the final high polish finish we use Menzerna M5 compound. This is a personal preference and the case comes up very well. Now we can give the case an ultrasonic and steam clean to remove any traces of polishing compound.

In order to plate the case it must be absolutely free of contaminants. This is crucial to achieve a good result. There are a number of methods to de-grease a case and leave a water break free surface – we opt to use a special preparation compound on the metal in this instance.

Now for the plating itself. There are many methods to plate an item – including tank plating, brush plating and pen plating. All of these methods have their merits and the one to use will depend on the situation. In this instance we use brush plating. To brush plate we connect the watch case to the negatively charged electrode (the cathode) and then use a specialist electroplating brush which is connected as the anode alongside electroplating solution to carefully apply the electroplating. These electroplating solutions can be hazardous, so due care and diligence must be take with protective equipment and ventilation.

After application we thoroughly clean and dry the case before beginning the reassembly process. We refit the case tube, as well as the glass. Once this is done the movement can be re-installed into the case, before the case back is fitted and the watch tested for water resistance. The watch is also checked on our timegrapher to confirm the timekeeping, though in this instance our client wanted just the plating taken care of, so no work was done to the movement itself. Once complete, the results speak for themselves – a huge improvement!

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

How does a Quartz watch work?

A quartz watch is a type of electronic timepiece that utilizes a quartz crystal to keep time. These watches are incredibly accurate, reliable, and have become a popular choice for both everyday wear and special occasions. In this blog post, we’ll look into the details of how a quartz watch works, from the components that make up the watch to the inner workings of the quartz crystal.

Firstly, let’s take a look at the components of a quartz watch. A quartz watch consists of four main components: a battery, a quartz crystal, an integrated circuit, and a stepping motor. The battery provides the electrical power that drives the watch, while the quartz crystal serves as the timekeeping element. The integrated circuit is responsible for processing and regulating the electronic signals, and the stepping motor is what drives the hands of the watch.

So how exactly does the quartz crystal keep time? Quartz is a crystalline mineral that is piezoelectric, meaning that when it is bent or pressed it generates an electrical charge. This property also works the opposite way round, so by applying an electrical current to the quartz crystal it will vibrate at a specific frequency. The frequency of the quartz crystal is incredibly stable, and it will oscillate at the same frequency regardless of external conditions such as temperature or humidity.

Quartz Watch Parts

The oscillations of the quartz crystal are then sent to the integrated circuit, which acts as the brain of the watch. The integrated circuit processes the electrical signals and sends a series of pulses to the stepping motor. The stepping motor then converts the pulses into rotational energy, which drives the  wheel train and ultimately moves the hands of the watch.

One of the advantages of a quartz watch over a mechanical watch is its accuracy. While a mechanical watch may lose or gain several seconds per day, a quartz watch can keep time to within a few seconds per month. This is in part because the quartz crystal oscillates at a very high frequency (32768 Hz) compared to a mechanical watch where the balance oscillates at a far lower frequency – 2.5-4Hz. Additionally, quartz watches are more reliable than mechanical watches since they have fewer moving parts that are susceptible to wear and tear.

Quartz watches can also incorporate additional features, such as a digital display, chronograph functions, and alarms. These functions are all controlled by the integrated circuit and stepping motor, making them easy to operate and accurate.

Another advantage of quartz watches is their affordability. While high-end mechanical watches can cost thousands or even tens of thousands of pounds, a quartz watch can be purchased for a fraction of the price. This makes quartz watches a popular choice for those who want an accurate and reliable timepiece without breaking the bank.

To summarise – a quartz watch is a reliable and accurate timepiece that utilizes a quartz crystal to keep time. The electrical current applied to the quartz crystal causes it to vibrate at a specific frequency, which is then processed by the integrated circuit and converted into rotational energy by the stepping motor. The result is a watch that keeps time accurately and reliably.

It should be noted that quartz watches do require occasional maintenance and servicing. When we assess a quartz watch we check for factors such as the power consumption of the movement. If a watch is draining batteries very quickly, this may be a sign that it needs a service. Despite what some watch repair shops say, many quartz watches can be serviced, while a few require complete replacement movements if there is a problem.

Do you have a quartz watch in need of attention? If so, get in touch and see how we can help. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service and we serve clients all around the UK, as well as to customers local to us in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

How does a mechanical watch work?

A mechanical watch is a timepiece that uses mechanical components to track and display the time. Mechanical watches have been in use for centuries and are still preferred by many watch enthusiasts for their timeless appeal and intricate design. In this blog post we’ll explore in basic terms how a mechanical watch actually works.

Mechanical watches use a combination of gears, springs, and other mechanical components to track the passage of time. The watch is powered by a mainspring, which is wound by the user or, in the case of an automatic mechanical watch, by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases energy that is transmitted through a series of gears, eventually reaching the escapement.

The escapement is the part of the watch that controls the release of power through the gears. It works in combination with an oscillator – the balance wheel. The balance wheel is a weighted wheel that oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, typically between 2.5 and 5 Hertz. As it oscillates, it moves the pallet fork back and forth. This motion allows power to be gradually released from the gear train due to the engagement of the pallet fork with the escape wheel.

The gear train is another critical part of the watch and is responsible for transmitting the energy from the mainspring to the escapement. It consists of a series of gears that are arranged in a specific ratio to regulate the movement of the watch hands. The gear train in traditional movements includes a centre wheel, which is connected to the mainspring barrel, as well as a third wheel and fourth wheel which transmit power from the centre wheel to the escapement.

The motion of the hands is controlled by the movement of the gear train. The hour hand is mounted on a separate shaft from the minute hand, which allows the hour hand to move independently. The gear ratio is designed so that the hour hand moves at a slower rate than the minute hand, allowing the hour hand to track the passage of hours while the minute hand tracks the passage of minutes.

Accuracy of a watch can be affected by many factors, including changes in temperature, position, and wear and tear on the components. To ensure your watch is performing as effectively as it can, it should be serviced periodically by a trained watchmaker. We are able to assist in the servicing and repair of most makes and models of watch – do get in touch and see how we can help. Most watches have a 3-5 year service interval, depending on their age and quality.

In addition to the basic components described above, many mechanical watches include additional features such as a date display, chronograph function, or moon phase indicator. These features typically involve additional gears and mechanisms being added to the watch movement. For example, a chronograph function might include a separate set of gears, springs and levers for the chronograph mechanism, drastically increasing the number of parts which make up the movement. This is why working on these models is often more complicated and time consuming than when dealing with a “basic” mechanical watch.

Do you have a mechanical watch in need of attention? If so, get in touch and see how we can help. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service and we serve clients all around the UK, as well as to customers local to us in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Longines watch history

The Longines watch company is a Swiss luxury watch brand that has been around for over 180 years. The company was founded in 1832 in the town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz, who had experience in the watchmaking industry. The company quickly gained a reputation for producing high quality watches that were both accurate and reliable.

Longines produced its first chronograph watch in 1868 which was used to time horse races. This was the beginning of a long history of the brand’s association with sports, particularly equestrianism. The company also became known for producing elegant and stylish watches for men and women.

In 1912 Longines became an official supplier of the International Aeronautical Federation and began producing aviation watches. These watches were designed to be both accurate and easy to read, even in low light conditions. Longines went on to become the official timekeeper of several aviation events, including the first transatlantic flight.

During World War II, Longines produced watches for the RAF, the US Army Air Force, and the French Air Force. These watches were designed to be rugged and reliable, and they were used by pilots and other military personnel. We still see these watches on a fairly regular basis in our workshop – testament to their rugged design!

In the post-war years, Longines continued to innovate and produce high-quality watches. In 1952, the company introduced the Calibre 30CH – an automatic chronograph movement, which was a major milestone in the history of the brand.

Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Longines continued to produce a wide range of watches for both men and women. The company also expanded its sports-related activities, becoming the official timekeeper of several international sports events, including the Olympic Games.

In 1983, Longines was acquired by the Swatch Group, which is one of the largest watchmaking companies in the world. Under Swatch Group ownership, Longines continued to produce high-quality watches and expand its sports-related activities. The company became the official timekeeper of several major international sporting events, including the Commonwealth Games and the World Equestrian Games.

Today, Longines is known for producing elegant and sophisticated watches that combine traditional watchmaking techniques with modern technology. The company’s watches are highly sought after by collectors and watch enthusiasts, and they are often seen on the wrists of celebrities and public figures. Popular Longines models include the Conquest, Les Classiques, Evidenza and Dolce Vita.

Do you have a Longines watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. Our fully equipped workshop based in Lewes, Sussex and expert watchmakers are able to repair almost any make and model of watch, modern or vintage. We accept repairs through our stores in Lewes and Uckfield as well as from clients all around the UK via our fully insured, secure postal repairs service. We are Business Partners of the British Horological Association and holders of a Platinum Trusted Service award from Feefo – testament of our commitment to excellent work and exceptional customer service.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited