Patek Philippe History

Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with luxury, precision, and craftsmanship. Patek has a storied history spanning over 180 years. Founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek in Geneva, Switzerland, the company has become one of the most prestigious and sought-after watchmakers in the world.

The early years of Patek Philippe were marked by the partnership between de Patek and Czapek. However, in 1844, Adrien Philippe, a French watchmaker, joined the company, and the brand evolved into Patek Philippe & Co. In 1851, Czapek left the company, leaving the stage for the iconic partnership between Patek and Philippe. This partnership laid the foundation for the brand’s commitment to innovation and excellence.

One of Patek Philippe’s groundbreaking inventions during this period was the keyless winding system, patented by Adrien Philippe in 1845. This revolutionary innovation eliminated the need for a key to wind the watch, paving the way for the development of modern winding mechanisms. The keyless winding system became a hallmark of Patek Philippe watches and set the brand apart from its competitors. Philippe received a coveted Bronze Medal for his inventions at the Industrial Exposition in Paris.

In 1868, Patek Philippe achieved another significant milestone by creating the first Swiss wristwatch, commissioned by Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. This early wristwatch was a bracelet watch with a baguette-shaped movement, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries witnessed Patek Philippe’s participation in various international exhibitions, where the brand consistently received accolades for its precision and innovation. The company also established itself as a favourite among royalty and dignitaries, further cementing its reputation for producing timepieces of unparalleled quality and craftsmanship.

The Great Depression and the two World Wars presented challenges for many industries, but Patek Philippe weathered these storms with resilience. The brand continued to innovate, introducing the Calatrava collection in 1932, which remains one of its most iconic and enduring lines.

Also during this period the Stern family, who had been dial suppliers for Patek Philippe, acquired the company. The Sterns brought stability and a renewed focus on the brand’s heritage, guiding Patek Philippe through the post-war era and into the modern age.

The latter half of the 20th century saw Patek Philippe continuing to innovate with numerous interesting models and movements, including the development of the ultra-thin Caliber 240 in 1977.

Patek Philippe’s commitment to uncompromising quality is epitomised by its adherence to the Patek Philippe Seal – a set of strict self-imposed quality standards. Each Patek Philippe timepiece is a work of art, created by master craftsmen using traditional techniques combined with cutting-edge technology.

Today, Patek Philippe watches are considered not just timepieces but also symbols of prestige and exclusivity. The brand’s commitment to innovation, precision, and timeless design has made it a favourite among collectors and connoisseurs, ensuring that the legacy of Patek Philippe will continue for generations to come.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Oris Watches History

The history of Oris watches is a testament to Swiss watchmaking excellence, innovation, and a commitment to quality craftsmanship. Founded in the picturesque town of Hölstein in Switzerland in 1904, Oris has grown from a small workshop into a globally recognized brand known for its precision timepieces. Over the past century, Oris has weathered economic challenges, evolving tastes, and changing market dynamics, all while staying true to its core values.

The early years of Oris were marked by the visionary leadership of its founders, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian. The duo shared a passion for watchmaking and a determination to create high-quality, affordable watches. These watches were produced in the former Lohner & Co watch factory and the brand name Oris came from a brook close to the factory. By 1911 Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein, employing over 300 people. Continued success marked a number of additional Oris factories opening.

During the early-mid 20th century, Oris made significant strides in horological innovation. In 1938 the brand released the ‘Big Crown,’ a watch designed for aviators that featured a large crown for easy adjustment, even when wearing gloves. This model gained immense popularity and played a vital role in Oris’ reputation for producing reliable and functional timepieces. It was around this time that Oris also started to manufacture its own escapements.

The Great Depression and World War II posed challenges for many industries, including watchmaking. However, Oris persevered and continued to innovate. To keep the business alive they moved into alarm clocks – producing an 8 day power reserve model from 1949.

Post-war years saw Oris expanding its product range and international presence. The 1950s and 1960s were marked by iconic releases like their first automatic watch with a power reserve indicator – the movement was the calibre 601. During this period, Oris also established a foothold in international markets, exporting its Swiss-made timepieces worldwide.

The quartz crisis of the 1970s posed a significant threat to the Swiss watch industry as a whole. Many traditional watchmakers struggled to adapt to the advent of quartz technology, and Oris was no exception. During this difficult period they made the decision to remain committed to mechanical watches.

In the late 1990s, Oris experienced a renaissance. The company’s management underwent changes, and a renewed focus on design and innovation led to the launch of iconic collections like the Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five and the Artelier series. These watches paid homage to the brand’s heritage while incorporating contemporary design elements and modern technology.

Oris began getting involved in major partnerships to further promote the brand. They sponsored the London Jazz festival – beginning their production of jazz themed watches, as well as sponsoring various sporting events, people and teams, such as the Williams F1 team from 2003 onwards and the record breaking freediver Carlos Coste

Today, Oris watches are recognized for their precision, reliability, and commitment to sustainability. The brand is involved in various philanthropic initiatives, including marine conservation efforts and collaborations with non-profit organizations.

In conclusion, the history of Oris watches is a story of resilience, innovation, and a commitment to tradition. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein over a century ago, Oris has evolved into an independent global watchmaking powerhouse, known for its mechanical excellence, timeless designs, and dedication to environmental responsibility. As Oris continues to write new chapters in its history, it remains a beacon of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship and a symbol of enduring quality.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Black Dial Omega Seamaster Servicing and Repair

The Omega Seamaster is an iconic watch and one we see regularly in our workshop. The history of the model can be traced back to the 1940s and the brand’s military and professional watches produced for the British Royal Navy during World War II. These watches were highly durable and water-resistant, essential qualities for military personnel. Modern versions of the Seamaster are often linked to James Bond, who has worn an Omega Seamaster in various films since 1995.

This client’s watch arrived showing some water ingress as the glass was steaming up. The watch was not working and clearly in need of work.

Inspection of the movement revealed some damage caused by water, though the water ingress was luckily relatively minor. These Omega Seamaster watches are powered by the Omega calibre 1120 movement – an automatic mechanical watch movement of excellent quality. This is a modified version of a movement produced by ETA – one of the top watch movement manufacturers. The modifications are designed to improve performance, with 23 jewels and a three arm Glucydur balance amongst the modifications made to the base movement.

To repair the watch it is first fully disassembled and each part inspected. Wear was found on some train wheels and the reverser. We also noted too much endshake on the fourth wheel and a mainspring in need of replacement. The disassembled movement is run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case and bracelet are cleaned in a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled with replacement parts fitted. To correct the endshake problem we adjust the fourth wheel jewel on the train bridge using a Horia jewelling tool. Once assembled the dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.

Once cased up we fine-tune the timekeeping to make sure the watch is as accurate as it can be. As this model is chronometer rated it is very accurate – when new it went through a series of strict tests to ensure excellent timekeeping accuracy. We always endeavour to get timekeeping as accurate as we can and various factors can affect this, including the calibre of the movement, age and condition of the watch.

One of the last elements of the job is to pressure test for water resistance. The Omega Seamaster is rated to 300m water resistant – we are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine. Finally we refit the bracelet before the watch will go on test prior to return to our client. It’s always a pleasure to work on an Omega Seamaster and this was no exception.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Ladies Omega Constellation Case and Bracelet Refurbishment

The refinishing of watch cases and bracelets is a skill set in its own right, separate from that of watchmaking. There are certain makes and models of watch we see for refinishing more than others – notable examples being the Rolex Datejust, Submariner and the Omega Seamaster. With each watch we need to use different skills, polishing wheels, mops and compounds to restore the finish back to a good standard.

When refinishing and restoring the aesthetic condition of a watch case and bracelet it is important to balance the level of wear and scratching, with the originality of the piece and value of the item. One must be realistic as to the level of finish it is possible to achieve.

We have the skills needed to refinish a range of different metals and style of watch case and bracelet. We also have the experience to advise when it’s best not to polish, or when to do so but only lightly. It can be a fine line, but unnecessary, ill-advised or poor-quality polishing can negatively impact on the value of a watch and be detrimental to the overall appearance.

This watch is a modern ladies Omega Constellation with a bicolour case and bracelet. The bracelet shows considerable scratching, though we should be able to improve on this quite significantly.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case and bracelet. Everything is taken apart and we disassemble the bracelet down to its individual components, separating out the gold bars from the steel links by removing the pins and tubes.

The refinishing process involves refinishing each component using our Durston double polishing motor. For the gold bars we use a special mop with a compound designed to give a stunning bright finish. To restore the brushed finish of the steel links we remove any major marks by hand before using a specialist graining wheel. Each link also has a slight high polished bevelled edge. We carefully polish this section taking care not to round the edge.

Once the refinishing is complete, a final ultrasonic clean is given. All the pins and tubes are also cleaned, this ensures everything is absolutely spotless. Once all components are dry we can begin the reassembly process, putting together the bracelet and refitting the movement into the case. We can then test for water resistance. Once fully reassembled, the results are truly stunning – a vast improvement and our client is sure to be delighted.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited