Category: Case Studies

Some pocket watches are far more than mere instruments of timekeeping. These mechanical marvels encapsulate history, craftsmanship, and nostalgia. Our meticulous process of disassembly, cleaning, and delicate repair, is often most challenging but also rewarding when we work on unusual vintage pieces, or those in particularly poor condition. This IWC Jump Hour pocket watch is certainly something we don’t see every day. The time is displayed in a digital style – with hours and minutes represented by numbers rather than hands pointing to numbers on the dial. This is a “Jump Hour” watch – meaning there isn’t a continuously moving hour indicator, the number jumps over to the next hour when the minutes change from “59” to “00”.

This watch was produced between 1885-1895, so it is over 130 years old. A similar steel-cased example with the same movement can be found in the British Museum’s collection. They describe the movement in remarkable detail, but to summarise: it is of excellent quality. Features include a club-toothed lever escapement, bi-metallic thermo-compensating balance and pin-set positive keyless works.

On arrival, this watch was in poor condition, with the bezel completely loose, a missing glass, and damage to the enamel dial. It needed careful restoration to get it back to excellent working order.

It’s important to be considered during a restoration like this. We must balance a number of factors including our client’s wishes, the reality of what’s feasible, and respecting the history and provenance of the watch in question. With this in mind, Works completed include full servicing, repair, and restoration of the movement, a sympathetic polish of the gold case, sourcing and fitting a new glass, and a repair where the enamel dial was broken.

It’s always a privilege to work on pieces like this – The end results really do speak for themselves. Another wonderful piece of history restored back to excellent working order for our delighted client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Oris is a renowned Swiss watch company with a rich history spanning over a century. Established in 1904 by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian in Hölstein, Oris began as a manufacturer of pocket watches. Over time, the company transitioned to producing wristwatches and gained recognition for their reliable and accurate timepieces.

In the 1920s, Oris introduced their first in-house movement, marking a significant milestone in their watchmaking expertise. Throughout the following decades, Oris expanded its product range and innovated with various mechanical complications, including alarm functions, chronographs, and world timers.

Today, Oris remains committed to traditional watchmaking craftsmanship while incorporating modern design elements, and continues to be celebrated for its exceptional quality, precision, and dedication to the art of horology. The brand has become more visible in recent years, in part thanks to sponsorship deals with the Williams F1 team and most recently in cricket with the MCC.

The model we have for repair is one of their classics – a Big Crown. As the name would suggest, the big crown indeed has a big crown! This model was designed for aviators and the large crown means the watch can be set while wearing gloves.

On arrival with us the watch is working, albeit poorly. On our timegrapher we can see the amplitude is very low and the timekeeping is erratic. Inspection of the movement shows dried oils and greases, so a full service and new mainspring is in order.

This watch uses an ETA 2824-2 movement – one of the more common good quality Swiss watch movements. This is a 25 jewel automatic movement and Oris customise their version with a bright red rotor which is visible through a clear exhibition case back.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. Parts are cleaned twice – both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine. We o this to ensure everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, the rebuild and oiling of the mechanism can begin. Different oils and greases are used in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers’ guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils.

The case and bracelet are given a thorough ultrasonic clean and we can then reassemble the complete watch. After pressure testing for water resistance, this excellent Oris Big Crown is ready to go on our automatic watch testing machine as part of its final testing before release to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

A recent job in the workshop involved the refinishing and re-plating of a vintage Sewills watch. We are asked about re-plating watch cases on a fairly regular basis. It’s a job which requires specialist equipment, hazardous chemicals and a good knowledge of the process and pitfalls in order to achieve excellent results.

The first step was to remove the ETA 2824-2 movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case – so this means removing everything we can, including the glass. This watch has a stainless steel case back, so this does not need plating and it can be refinished/polished in the conventional manner.

Before we can commence plating we need to ensure the case is refinished back to a good standard. Re-plating does not hide any of the existing blemishes, marks and scratches. These all need to be dealt with otherwise the case will look poor after plating is complete. We use a variety of methods to remove the scratches and to ensure we maintain the profile of the case. In some areas we use hand tools and sandpaper, whereas in others we can use a special wheel on our polishing motor.

Once the case has been stripped back to the base metal with the scratches removed, that’s when we are able to polish. For the final high polish finish we use Menzerna M5 compound. This is a personal preference and the case comes up very well. Now we can give the case an ultrasonic and steam clean to remove any traces of polishing compound.

In order to plate the case it must be absolutely free of contaminants. This is crucial to achieve a good result. There are a number of methods to de-grease a case and leave a water break free surface – we opt to use a special preparation compound on the metal in this instance.

Now for the plating itself. There are many methods to plate an item – including tank plating, brush plating and pen plating. All of these methods have their merits and the one to use will depend on the situation. In this instance we use brush plating. To brush plate we connect the watch case to the negatively charged electrode (the cathode) and then use a specialist electroplating brush which is connected as the anode alongside electroplating solution to carefully apply the electroplating. These electroplating solutions can be hazardous, so due care and diligence must be take with protective equipment and ventilation.

After application we thoroughly clean and dry the case before beginning the reassembly process. We refit the case tube, as well as the glass. Once this is done the movement can be re-installed into the case, before the case back is fitted and the watch tested for water resistance. The watch is also checked on our timegrapher to confirm the timekeeping, though in this instance our client wanted just the plating taken care of, so no work was done to the movement itself. Once complete, the results speak for themselves – a huge improvement!

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

A quartz watch is a type of electronic timepiece that utilizes a quartz crystal to keep time. These watches are incredibly accurate, reliable, and have become a popular choice for both everyday wear and special occasions. In this blog post, we’ll look into the details of how a quartz watch works, from the components that make up the watch to the inner workings of the quartz crystal.

Firstly, let’s take a look at the components of a quartz watch. A quartz watch consists of four main components: a battery, a quartz crystal, an integrated circuit, and a stepping motor. The battery provides the electrical power that drives the watch, while the quartz crystal serves as the timekeeping element. The integrated circuit is responsible for processing and regulating the electronic signals, and the stepping motor is what drives the hands of the watch.

So how exactly does the quartz crystal keep time? Quartz is a crystalline mineral that is piezoelectric, meaning that when it is bent or pressed it generates an electrical charge. This property also works the opposite way round, so by applying an electrical current to the quartz crystal it will vibrate at a specific frequency. The frequency of the quartz crystal is incredibly stable, and it will oscillate at the same frequency regardless of external conditions such as temperature or humidity.

The oscillations of the quartz crystal are then sent to the integrated circuit, which acts as the brain of the watch. The integrated circuit processes the electrical signals and sends a series of pulses to the stepping motor. The stepping motor then converts the pulses into rotational energy, which drives the  wheel train and ultimately moves the hands of the watch.

One of the advantages of a quartz watch over a mechanical watch is its accuracy. While a mechanical watch may lose or gain several seconds per day, a quartz watch can keep time to within a few seconds per month. This is in part because the quartz crystal oscillates at a very high frequency (32768 Hz) compared to a mechanical watch where the balance oscillates at a far lower frequency – 2.5-4Hz. Additionally, quartz watches are more reliable than mechanical watches since they have fewer moving parts that are susceptible to wear and tear.

Quartz watches can also incorporate additional features, such as a digital display, chronograph functions, and alarms. These functions are all controlled by the integrated circuit and stepping motor, making them easy to operate and accurate.

Another advantage of quartz watches is their affordability. While high-end mechanical watches can cost thousands or even tens of thousands of pounds, a quartz watch can be purchased for a fraction of the price. This makes quartz watches a popular choice for those who want an accurate and reliable timepiece without breaking the bank.

To summarise – a quartz watch is a reliable and accurate timepiece that utilizes a quartz crystal to keep time. The electrical current applied to the quartz crystal causes it to vibrate at a specific frequency, which is then processed by the integrated circuit and converted into rotational energy by the stepping motor. The result is a watch that keeps time accurately and reliably.

It should be noted that quartz watches do require occasional maintenance and servicing. When we assess a quartz watch we check for factors such as the power consumption of the movement. If a watch is draining batteries very quickly, this may be a sign that it needs a service. Despite what some watch repair shops say, many quartz watches can be serviced, while a few require complete replacement movements if there is a problem.

Do you have a quartz watch in need of attention? If so, get in touch and see how we can help. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service and we serve clients all around the UK, as well as to customers local to us in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We are experienced in the repair of almost every type and brand of watch here at WE Clark Watch Repairs. In order to repair watches to a high standard, we have invested in the best quality tools and equipment for our workshop. While you may find budget versions of some equipment, the calibration and quality is – speaking from experience – not the same.

One important part of watch servicing is cleanliness. A watch movement needs to be spotlessly clean to ensure it works to the highest possible standard. If it is not properly clean, the running of the watch will be adversely affected, which may result in poor timekeeping and shorter service intervals. There are different methods available for cleaning a watch movement, but the choice of professionals is a quality watch movement cleaning machine.

To use a watch movement cleaning machine, we first have to strip down the watch movement. It is important to fully disassemble the mechanism as if shortcuts are taken and it is left partially assembled, there is no way of being certain that it is fully clean (it’s also impossible to have fully checked some of the components for wear if they’re not disassembled and inspected). In our workshop we generally pre-clean movements by manually using pegwood and horological essence to clean a number of parts before they then go through the cleaning machine. This is another way we ensure absolute cleanliness.

Once disassembled and pre-cleaned, the various parts are loaded into the cleaning basket which is attached to the cleaning machine itself. Watch cleaning machines come in various brands, makes and models. We have experience using a range of machines – from the vintage Elma Super Elite and L&R Tempo 400, through to modern industry standards like our current machines – the Elma Solvex RM and Greiner ACS 900. Each machine does things a little differently, though the principles are similar. The cleaning basket is immersed and rotated in a number of jars of cleaning fluids and rinse solutions, before finally being dried off.

Some machines like the Greiner use ultrasonics in one of the jars to help with the cleaning process. The use of ultrasonics in watch cleaning machines is cause for debate amongst some watchmakers, as at least with some vintage watches, the ultrasonics may cause parts like the pallets to come loose. Machines like the Elma Solvex RM do not use ultrasonics – indeed they use Elma’s alternative “vibrasonic” principle. In our experience both machines do a fantastic job and when combined with thorough disassembly and pre-cleaning, they ensure watch movements are thoroughly cleaned.

Suffice to say, if you trust us with the repair of your watch, it will be taken care of by expert watchmakers and repaired using the best quality tools and equipment. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We see a whole range of watches come through our workshop – from modern quartz through to 19^th Century pocket watches, we’re able to repair almost any make and model of watch. In this case we have a vintage automatic Mappin watch, dating from the 1960s. This watch has been exposed to water and it is in rather a sorry state.

On initial assessment this watch was not functional. It was impossible to set the hands or manually wind the movement. On opening the case it revealed the reason why – significant water damage throughout large areas of the ETA 2375 automatic movement. With damage so extensive our options for repair are limited. We want to preserve as much of the original watch as possible, but a watch is a functional item, so it needs to work. We secured a vintage donor movement of the same calibre to use for parts – we did everything possible to preserve originality but many parts still needed to be replaced.

The parts we were able to save from the original movement were de-rusted as necessary and cleaned by hand, before being put through a cleaning cycle in our movement cleaning machine. After cleaning, these parts are checked before combining with the donor components for another round in the cleaning machine. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fit a new mainspring. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch and the original was “set” and made of an older, less reliable material. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement.

On top of the damage to the movement, the dial was also water damaged. This went to our specialist dial restorer to be fully restored. The dial is completely stripped back and through a variety of techniques, the dial is gradually refinished back to as near a match to the original dial as possible. In instances of dial restoration work we always consult and advise our clients on the best way forwards prior to any work taking place. This ensures a fully satisfactory outcome at the end of the process.

The gold case was given a light polish and a new plexi-glass fitted, before watch is ready to be cased up. We re-unite the dial and hands with the movement, then refit these into the case. We can then double check the watch is working to a good standard on our timegrapher before it goes on test.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

From vintage pieces over 100 years old, through to modern watches, we see a huge range of timepieces in our workshop. In this instance we’re looking at a Tissot Couturier watch from within the past 15 years or so.

Tissot are a Swiss watch manufacturer, founded in Le Locle in 1853. Nowadays they produces a broad range of watches – both quartz and mechanical – and cater towards the mid-value price point of the market. Notable models include the T-Touch, PR100, PRS 516, PRC 200, T-Wave and Le Locle.

This Tissot Couturier is an automatic watch, and was not functional on arrival. Initial inspection suggested a broken mainspring – something we’d later confirm during disassembly. The movement powering this watch is made by ETA – a calibre 2834-2. This is a 25 jewel automatic movement with a day-date complication.

During disassembly we check everything as we go to make sure it’s in good order. As mentioned we found the mainspring – the source of power for the movement – to be broken. A broken mainspring means a watch will not function at all. This will obviously need to be replaced. We check and pre-clean the movement by hand during the disassembly process before the movement is put through a cleaning cycle in our cleaning machine.

During reassembly the movement is rebuilt using certain oils and greases to lubricate the mechanism. We follow the manufacturer’s specification for the correct oils and greases to ensure optimal performance. A new mainspring correct for this calibre is fitted as part of the work, and once reassembled we can test the movement using our Witschi Watch Expert IV timegrapher, before putting the complete watch through pressure testing for water resistance.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

One popular service we offer in our workshop is the polishing and refinishing of the case and bracelet of a watch. This involves using a selection of different polishing mops, wheels and compounds to restore the finish of your watch back to a good standard.

A recent job involved doing just this to a Rolex Explorer watch. This watch didn’t look like it had seen particularly heavy wear, so in these instances it is possible to achieve an excellent standard of finish. Were, for example, the watch to be heavily dented and scratched, a certain level of realistic expectations would be required as the refinishing work would be a compromise between maintaining the shape and dimensions of the case vs removing all of the various dents and scratches.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case – so this means removing the bezel, glass and case tube. Once the case is down to its individual components, we are able to give everything a clean before we begin the polishing process.

The refinishing process involves progressively polishing the different elements of the case using a few different techniques. This is all done using our Twin-Spindle polishing machine. Our preference is to use Menzerna polishing compounds, though there are other manufacturers who offer comparable products. We also need to apply a grained finish to parts like the bracelet. This is done with a Bergeon graining wheel of the correct type to match the original finish.

Once the refinishing of each part of the case and bracelet are complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the case is a matter of initially refitting the case tube and glass, before then fitting the friction fit bezel. Once this is done the movement can be re-installed into the case, before the case back is fitted and the watch tested for water resistance. The watch is also checked on our timegrapher to confirm the timekeeping is still excellent. We now refit the bracelet. Once fully reassembled, this watch is ready for testing before release to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

A top brand we regularly see in our workshop is Cartier. Cartier watches are excellent quality and the brand is synonymous with stunning design, style and sophistication.

This watch is one of Cartier’s most popular models – the Tank Francaise. This watch arrived working but not keeping time. The case and bracelet were scratched all over, so a full service of the movement as well as a case and bracelet refinish was in order.

The movement powering this watch is based on the ETA 2000-1. This is a small automatic movement with bidirectional winding, hacking and a 40 hour power reserve.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils.

To refinish the case and bracelet, these are disassembled and given a thorough ultrasonic clean before we commence the refinishing process. To do this we use our variable speed polishing machine in combination with a variety of different polishing mops and compounds. To achieve the brushed finish we mask off the polished sections and use a special graining wheel on the relevant sections of the case and bracelet. After a final ultrasonic clean we can reassemble the watch.

After reassemble and testing, we check for water resistance using our Sigma pressure testing machine.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited