Category: Watch Brands

Sewills was a Liverpool-based maker of watches, chronometers, and nautical instruments, established by Joseph Sewill. The business, which continued until the late 1990s, was later associated with Time Factors International Limited. Sewills is particularly known for its ship’s chronometers, one of which is now housed in the National Maritime Museum

Fault finding: Why this Watch Needed a Service

Our client’s watch arrived working but not keeping good time. Inspection of the movement revealed the watch to be in need of a service. We identified wear to the reversing wheel and found many pivots to be running dry. Ideally, an automatic watch like this should be serviced every 3-5 years. This helps to prevent wear by ensuring oils and greases are fresh.

“Regular servicing is essential for preserving both the performance and longevity of an automatic watch.”

The movement powering this watch is an ETA calibre 2892. This is a very popular, good quality automatic movement found in many top brands including Omega, Corum, Longines, Baume & Mercier, and Tag Heuer. These top brands often use higher grade versions of the movement which are decorated and customised, though the base architecture remains the same.

The Service Process: Disassembly, Cleaning, and Reassembly

To service and repair this watch, it is first fully disassembled and each part inspected. As previously mentioned, wear was found to the reversing wheel. This is often a point for significant wear, as it is a key component in the automatic winding mechanism. We also noted significant wear to the barrel, a damaged mainspring, and a worn intermediate train wheel – sure signs this watch has not seen a watchmakers in many, many years.

The disassembled movement is pre-cleaned and checked by hand before it is run through our Elma Solvex watch movement cleaning machine, while the case is cleaned in a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled with replacement parts fitted. We follow the movement manufacturer’s technical specifications for this calibre, ensuring all correct oils and greases are used.

Regulating the Movement & Testing the Timekeeping

Once cased up, we adjust and fine-tune the timekeeping to make sure the watch is as accurate as it can be. We always endeavour to get timekeeping as accurate as we can, and various factors can affect this, including the calibre of the movement, age, and condition of the watch.

“Regulation – fine adjustments to the effective length of the hairspring – can make all the difference in a watch’s accuracy.”

To regulate this watch we make fine adjustments to the regulator, which involves careful, incremental movement of an arm which alters the effective length of the hairspring. By reducing the effective length we speed the watch up, and conversely by increasing the effective length we slow the watch down. This adjustment can only be carried out if the rest of the ETACHRON system is set up correctly.

After the movement is adjusted we can refit the dial and hands, then case up this excellent Sewills watch ready to go on test.

Summary

This Sewills Automatic watch arrived working but was not keeping good time. Upon inspection, we found wear to the reversing wheel, dry pivots, and additional wear throughout the movement including a damaged mainspring and worn barrel. This indicated it was due for a service. The watch houses an ETA 2892 automatic movement, a high-quality calibre used in slightly different guises by brands such as Omega and Longines.

The service involved fully disassembling the movement, cleaning each component, and replacing worn parts. After careful reassembly and lubrication following manufacturer specifications, we fine-tuned the timekeeping for optimal accuracy.

Regular servicing every 3-5 years is crucial to maintaining an automatic watch’s longevity and precision, ensuring it continues to perform as intended.

It’s a pleasure to repair and conduct a Sewills Automatic watch service – do get in touch if you have a Sewills watch in need of restoration.

Need Your Vintage Watch Serviced or Repaired?

Take advantage of our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service for a secure and hassle-

free experience. Your watch is fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout its entire journey, from the moment it leaves your hands until it’s safely returned to you. Trust our expert watchmakers to restore your timepiece with precision and care.

Book your watch service today!

The Breitling Chronomat has been a pillar of the brand since its 1984 redesign, It epitomises robust functionality and distinctive style. Originally conceived for Frecce Tricolori pilots, its signature rider tabs on the unidirectional bezel facilitate glove-friendly operation and protect the crystal.

This Breitling Chronomat arrived with us in need of a full service and repair. The movement powering the watch is a high grade ETA 7750 – one of the most popular, quality chronograph movements. Versions of the 7750 are used by many high-quality Swiss watch houses, like TAG Heuer and Omega.

Breitling Chronomat Service – Servicing the Breitling Chronomat 7750 Movement

As always we begin by checking the functions of the watch. We do this to check for faults, as it’s important to be as thorough as possible, especially when working on a watch where missing a fault may mean having to disassemble a lot of components! We check if it winds up (both by hand and automatically), hand setting, date change and the chronograph. Everything appeared to be in reasonable working order, though there was some obvious wear to the reverser. It’s important to ensure your watch is serviced every 3-5 years, this will ensure it continues to function as it should.

When we disassemble the watch we start by removing the rotor, before putting the movement into a movement holder specific for this calibre. We do this to ensure it is held securely so we can concentrate on carefully extracting the hands.

We’ve discussed servicing a 7750 chronograph previously, though we have not touched upon removing the hands. This can often be a little awkward with certain brands, in particular Breitling, as their hands are pressed on extremely tight. A senior watchmaker once told me Breitling replace all the hands during a service, so they don’t have to worry about preserving them. For the sake of maintaining originality and from an independent service centre perspective, this is not an option.

The most difficult hand to remove is always the centre seconds chronograph hand, as it’s positioned far from the dial, and there are other hands below it. Watchmakers use a variety of methods to extract these hands successfully.

There are tools for chronograph hand extraction, as well as our preferred method, which is to use a small shaped plate with appropriate protections to avoid any marking of the dial. This fits around the hands and means we can in effect raise up the working distance of our Presto tool. We combine this along with a small drop of penetrating oil and have a high success rate. If the hand is too tight and comes apart, there are methods for repairing it, though it is obviously preferable to avoid this happening.

With the dial and hands removed we can continue with disassembly. Disassembling this watch is rather involved, as we need to check many of the 250+ components to ensure they are in good condition. As noted, the reverser is worn, we will also replace the mainspring as standard to ensure we have a reliable source of power for many years to come.

Cleaning, Reassembly, and Replacing the Hands

With the movement fully disassembled and checked, it is cleaned – going through a cycle in our Elma Solvex RM automatic cleaning machine. Once parts are completely clean and dried, we can commence reassembly of the movement. During reassembly, we followed our usual servicing procedure, following the manufacturer’s technical guidelines in terms of oil and grease usage and other treatments.

With the movement reassembled, we can case this Breitling Chronomat before testing it for water resistance. It then moves on test to ensure good timekeeping within tolerance, appropriate power reserve, and correct functioning. Once testing is complete, it is released ready for collection by our client. If you’re interested in the process of watch repairs, or you have any questions about servicing your watch, contact us using our Ask the Watchmaker form.

If your timepiece needs servicing or restoration, contact us today or visit us in store to discuss how our expert team can bring your watch back to its best.

Need Your Vintage Watch Serviced or Repaired?

Take advantage of our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service for a secure and hassle-

free experience. Your watch is fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout its entire journey, from the moment it leaves your hands until it’s safely returned to you. Trust our expert watchmakers to restore your timepiece with precision and care.

Book your watch service today!

Deep Blue watches was founded in New York in 2007 and quickly became known for their robust dive watches. Their range of watches includes a good variety of models with various dial and lume colours. This watch was one of their top of the range models when it was produced – a divers automatic chronograph. As it says on the dial, it’s a “Master Chrono 7750” – indicative of the ETA 7750 movement powering this watch. Versions of these movements are found in many quality Swiss chronographs, like those produced by TAG Heuer, Breitling and Omega, though it should be noted these brands customise the movement, often utilising high grade versions with enhanced accuracy.

Servicing the Deep Blue Master Chrono 7750 Movement

We begin by checking the functions of the watch – including the winding up, hand setting, date change and chronograph. Everything appeared to be in reasonable working order, though the watch was not performing well on our Timegrapher, so it was highly likely this would be a maintenance service without the need for any major repairs. It’s important to ensure your watch is serviced every 3-5 years, this will ensure it continues to function as it should. Even old watches can be restored by our expert watchmakers; learn more about our vintage watch repair service.

The ETA 7750 is an integrated chronograph movement. This means the chronograph mechanism is built into the “base” movement. This is in contrast to modular chronographs where the chronograph module is bolted onto a base movement, such as with chronograph versions of the ETA 2892A2.

The base of the 7750 houses the essential timekeeping functions, including the mainspring barrel, gear train, escapement, and balance wheel. This serves as the foundation upon which the chronograph complication is built. When we assemble a 7750, this section goes together first. That’s why it’s important to make sure everything is perfect and running well, as soon it will be buried underneath a chronograph mechanism.

Disassembling this watch is rather involved, as we need to check many of the 250+ components to ensure they are in good condition. We note a worn reverser – not unusual as this is a key part involved in the automatic winding mechanism. Otherwise everything is in re-usable condition, though we will replace the mainspring as standard to ensure we have a reliable source of power for many years to come.

Cleaning, Reassembly, and Replacing the Hands

With the movement fully disassembled and checked, it is cleaned – going through a cycle in our Elma Solvex RM automatic cleaning machine. Once parts are completely clean and dried, we can commence reassembly of the movement. During reassembly, we followed our typical servicing procedure using the manufacturer’s technical guidelines in terms of oil and grease usage, as well as the use of other treatments such as epilame.

Once we get to the stage of refitting the dial and hands, we fit a replacement set of hands supplied by our client. When handling watch hands we tend to use carbon fibre tweezers as when combined with due care this significantly reduces the risk of marking them.

With all works completed, we can case this Deep Blue Precision Divers Chronograph before testing it for water resistance. It then moves on test to ensure good timekeeping within tolerance, appropriate power reserve, and correct functioning. Once testing is complete, it is released ready for collection by our client. If you’re interested in the process of watch repairs, or you have any questions about servicing your watch, contact us using our Ask the Watchmaker form.

If your timepiece needs servicing or restoration, contact us today or visit us in store to discuss how our expert team can bring your watch back to its best.

Need Your Vintage Watch Serviced or Repaired?

Take advantage of our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service for a secure and hassle-

free experience. Your watch is fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout its entire journey, from the moment it leaves your hands until it’s safely returned to you. Trust our expert watchmakers to restore your timepiece with precision and care.

Book your watch service today!

Our fully equipped on-site watch workshop offers a wide range of repairs – from smaller jobs like replacing a battery or glass through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands including Omega, Tag Heuer, Longines, Breitling, and Rolex, as well as vintage watch repairs. In this instance we are working on a Cartier Tank Francaise. Cartier is a name which really needs no introduction – it is synonymous with high quality and luxury. If you’re interested to learn more about Cartier, a previous blog post has covered some of the history of Cartier.

Servicing the movement and replacing an Incabloc shock spring

On arrival with us, this Cartier was working though not keeping good time, with erratic readings on our timegrapher. This is not a problem, as most watches can be repaired back to excellent working order. Even old watches can be restored by expert watchmakers; learn more about our vintage watch repair service.

The movement powering this Tank Francaise is an ETA calibre 2000-1. These are small automatic movements which have been in production since approximately 1992. While not exactly the same, they are almost like a miniaturised version of the ETA 2892 movement. Inspection of the movement found it to be in need of a service – the oils and greases which are needed to ensure everything runs smoothly had dried up. We also noted a broken upper Incabloc shock spring, so this needed to be dealt with. The Incabloc system is crucial to help prevent damage to the movement in the event of a sudden shock – for example if the watch is dropped on the floor.

We disassemble the movement as usual – ensuring we check every component and carry out our usual pre-cleaning of parts. When the movement is completely disassembled we can tackle the Incabloc spring. These springs are extremely small and the procedure to replace them requires a steady hand. It is very easy for these springs to ping across the bench, so great care must be taken.

To replace the spring we need to remove the balance wheel, then carefully push out the Incabloc upper bloc using a Horia Jewelling tool. We can then fit the replacement spring, before putting everything back together.

Cleaning, Reassembly, and Final Testing

With the new Incabloc spring in place, we continue with the service as usual. With the movement fully disassembled and checked, it is cleaned – going through a cycle in our Elma Solvex RM automatic cleaning

machine. Once parts are completely clean and dried, we can commence reassembly of the movement. During reassembly, we followed our typical servicing procedure using the manufacturer’s technical guidelines in terms of oil and grease usage, as well as the use of other treatments such as epilame.

With all works completed, we now move the Cartier Tank Francaise onto test to ensure good timekeeping within tolerance, appropriate power reserve, and correct functioning. Once testing is complete, it is released ready for collection by our client. If you’re interested in the process of watch repair, or you have any questions about servicing your watch, contact us using our Ask the Watchmaker form.

If your timepiece needs servicing or restoration, contact us today or visit us in store to discuss how our expert team can bring your watch back to its best.

Need Your Vintage Watch Serviced or Repaired?

Take advantage of our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service for a secure and hassle-

free experience. Your watch is fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout its entire journey, from the moment it leaves your hands until it’s safely returned to you. Trust our expert watchmakers to restore your timepiece with precision and care.

Book your watch service today!

As a TAG Heuer Authorised Workshop, we regularly see a whole range of TAG Heuer watches for repair. These repairs range from smaller jobs like watch battery replacement and resealing to full servicing and refinishing. In this instance, we’re conducting the latter—fully servicing and refinishing the case of a TAG Heuer Monaco watch.

On arrival, this watch was not working. Inspection of the watch movement showed it had not been serviced in some time, with dried-up oils and greases alongside wear to the automatic winding mechanism. For watch health, it is important to regularly service your watch.

The movement powering this watch is the TAG Heuer Calibre 6—a high-quality automatic movement with a date function and sub-dial seconds at 6 o’clock. The base calibre is an ETA 2895-2. To service the watch, we first fully disassemble everything. The movement is progressively taken apart, with each component checked for wear before running most parts through our watch movement cleaning machine. Certain components, such as the calendar ring, are left out to prevent damage.

Precision Servicing for Long-Term Reliability

Once the movement parts are clean and dry, we begin reassembly. We follow the manufacturer’s technical documentation and use only the specified oils and greases. During inspection, we noted that the reversing wheel and rotor bearing needed replacing. Additionally, we replaced the mainspring to ensure a strong, reliable power source for years to come.

“A well-serviced automatic movement isn’t just about keeping time—it’s about preserving the craftsmanship and performance that make a watch truly exceptional.”

To clean and polish the case, we completely disassemble it before refinishing each element using a variable-speed polishing machine with different polishing mops and compounds. Specific wheels help maintain the flat lines of the case, while a graining wheel reintroduces the grained finish to the case sides.

The Final Stages: Reassembly and Testing

Once the case work is complete, we rebuild it with brand-new seals and refit the glass and case tube. We then reinstall the fully serviced movement.

“Restoring a luxury watch is about more than aesthetics—it’s about ensuring it continues to perform flawlessly for years to come.”

After a full watch service, this TAG Heuer Monaco is back to excellent working order. The refinishing work has restored its aesthetic condition to an exceptional standard, ensuring years of reliable use for its owner.

Summary

As a TAG Heuer Authorised Workshop, we recently completed a full service and case refinishing for a TAG Heuer Monaco watch. The watch arrived non-functional due to dried oils and wear in the movement. After fully disassembling and cleaning the Calibre 6 movement, we replaced key components, including the reversing wheel, rotor bearing, and mainspring, ensuring long-term reliability. The case was carefully refinished to restore its original aesthetic, using specialist polishing and graining techniques. After reassembly with new seals and final testing, the watch is now in excellent working order, ready for years of continued use.

Bell & Ross was founded in 1994, specialising in watches designed with divers and pilots in mind. They also produce a range of vintage-style watches such as this one – a WW1 Heritage model.

Identifying the Issues: Why the Watch Needed a Service

Our client’s watch arrived working but not keeping good time. Inspection of the movement revealed the watch to be in need of a service. We identified wear to the reversing wheel and found many pivots to be running dry. Ideally, an automatic watch like this should be serviced every 3-5 years. This helps to prevent wear by ensuring oils and greases are fresh.

“Regular servicing is essential for preserving both the performance and longevity of an automatic watch.”

The movement powering this watch is an ETA calibre 2892-2. This is a very popular, good quality automatic movement found in many top brands including Omega, Corum, Longines, Baume & Mercier, and Tag Heuer. Interestingly, this watch does not have a date display; however, the movement is an unmodified version, so it still retains the date-setting position with the crown pulled out one click.

The Service Process: Disassembly, Cleaning, and Reassembly

To service and repair this watch, it is first fully disassembled and each part inspected. As previously mentioned, wear was found to the reversing wheel. This is often a point for significant wear, as it is a key component in the automatic winding mechanism. We also noted some adjustment was needed to correct the hairspring so it runs flat and true.

The disassembled movement is run through our Elma Solvex watch movement cleaning machine, while the case is cleaned in a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled with replacement parts fitted. We follow the movement manufacturer’s technical specifications for this calibre, ensuring all correct oils and greases are used.

Testing the Timekeeping and Water Resistance

Once cased up, we adjust and fine-tune the timekeeping to make sure the watch is as accurate as it can be. We always endeavour to get timekeeping as accurate as we can, and various factors can affect this, including the calibre of the movement, age, and condition of the watch.

“Precision is the heart of horology—fine adjustments can make all the difference in a watch’s accuracy.”

One of the last elements of the job is to pressure test for water resistance. This WW1 Heritage Bell & Ross is rated to 50m water-resistant. We are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine, which can safely test watches at ratings of up to 300m water-resistant. Finally, we refit the strap before the watch will go on test prior to return to our client.

Summary

This Bell & Ross WW1 Heritage watch arrived working but was not keeping good time. Upon inspection, we found wear to the reversing wheel and dry pivots, indicating it was due for a service. The watch houses an ETA 2892-2 automatic movement, a high-quality calibre used by brands such as Omega and Longines.

The service involved fully disassembling the movement, cleaning each component, and replacing worn parts. After careful reassembly and lubrication following manufacturer specifications, we fine-tuned the timekeeping for optimal accuracy. The final steps included pressure testing for water resistance and refitting the strap before returning the watch to the client.

Regular servicing every 3-5 years is crucial to maintaining an automatic watch’s longevity and precision, ensuring it continues to perform as intended.

Is your Watch Overdue a Service or Repair?

Try our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service, all watches are fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout their postal journey from the moment the package leaves your hand to when it is received by you. Book yours in now!